All About Focal Points In Gardening

Creating Focal Points in a Small Garden

Designing When Every Space Counts

 

Focal points are used in garden design to draw and direct the eye. Think of a garden, large or small, that was just a swath of plants. Your eye sweeps along, not knowing where to land. A sense of flow is nice, but without a focus, your garden is not really taken in and studied. It is quickly passed over. Now think of a garden you saw with a wonderful water feature, a weeping tree or a dramatic ornament. The first thing you notice is this focal feature. Once your interested is concentrated there, you start to branch out and notice other plants and features in the garden. The garden is slowly discovered rather than swept through. You don’t have to have a focal point, but your garden will appear more intentional if you do.

Small gardens can pose difficulties for creating a focal point. Obviously you don’t want to sacrifice your entire garden space to one large plant or tree. But focal points can be scaled to the size of your garden. Even the smallest space could have one unique, flamboyant plant that calls attention to itself. Think of tall, orange leaved cannas or small weeping Japanese maples.

So what Constitutes a Focal Point?

Pretty much any striking feature in your garden:

•  An unusual specimen (Dwarf Magnolia, Anchor Topiary, or Dogwood)
• A large, architectural plant (Cimicifuga)
• A group of plants (a cluster of astilbe, bleeding heart and ferns)
• A vibrant color (orange canna)
• A single white plant
• An ornament (Bird bath, gazing globe, statue...)
• Large boulders
• A dwarf shrub or tree

You don’t have to start your garden design with a focal point, but you don’t want to throw one in as an after thought. Think about the style of garden you want and the plants you are considering using. Then list possible features that would complement yet stand out from your basic design. Some designs lend themselves to the obvious focal point: a Zen-like garden with a small water feature, a cottage garden with a cement statue, a formal garden with an obelisk.

If you have a preexisting large tree near your garden, that will become a focal point whether you mean to or not. You might want to enhance it with a bird house or a flowering vine, like climbing hydrangea.

Larger gardens often have more than one focal point, stopping the viewer has she surveys the whole scene. Small gardens generally only need one focal point, but it can make or break the garden. Don’t let that intimidate you. If you find you don’t like your first choice - welcome to the world of garden design. You can always try something else. One of the best ways to find out what you do like is to discover what you don’t.

Positioning Your Focal Point

Resist the temptation to center your focal point and plant around it. Use the 1/3 -2/3 rule and place the focal feature just off center. If you have a small, circular garden, place it towards the rear of your viewing perspective.

The closer you will be when viewing your garden, the smaller your focal point can be. In a garden next to a seating area, you don’t need drama to catch the viewer’s attention. A view from the dining room window some 60 feet away will be lost unless it dramatically stands out.

I’ve never found a magic formula for how large to make a focal point. A lot depends on where you are viewing from, plant choices and color. It often helps to use a stand in for the focal point, a chair, ladder or your child.

Some Focal Point Tips

• Choose a proven performer. A sickly looking plant or one that perpetually gets eaten or mildew is not a good choice.
• Make sure it has a long peak period. Don’t fall for a short bloomer or a plant that only has one season of interest. no matter how spectacular it my be. Plants in small gardens need to pull their weight.
• It is possible to have seasonal focal points, in succession, but this requires planning and diligent maintenance. The idea behind a focal point is to attract the eye. If you spring focal point, say Bleeding heart, is going dormant or yellow before your next focal point, perhaps tall lilies, have come into their glory, the yellow foliage of the Bleeding Heart will be your current focal point.

 

Question: Jimmie, “When a description says the plant is deciduous, does that always mean it loses its leaves? Does it lose both its flowers and leaves or just flowers? I plan to landscape the front of our house, which faces east, and down the side of the house, which faces north. My husband and I want color and the foundation planting that will keep its leaves, which I always considered evergreen, but now I’m not so sure I understand what to call different plants. How do I know what part of the plant is “deciduous”? Or is this a stupid question? I hope not. I just need help.” Thank You for your time, Pamela P. in Prosper.

Answer: Hi Pamela, It can be confusing sometimes. A deciduous plant (tree or shrub) will go dormant (its rest period) beginning when either the weather starts becoming colder (40’s to 50’s) or when an area experiences a hard frost (temperatures dropping below 32 degrees, usually overnight). It will begin to lose its leaves at this time. Blooming plants have specific periods when they bloom. They aren’t always in bloom. Many will bloom either in spring or summer.

“Evergreen” is used to describe plants (trees/shrubs) that do not go dormant and retain their leaves or needles. This generally refers to pines, boxwoods, junipers, yews and holly. Broadleaf evergreens are plants that retain leaves (very thick leaves) year round. But, they do shed the leaves periodically. This will apply to plants such as azaleas, spireas and privets.

Perennials are (usually) smaller plants which die completely back to the ground after cool weather or frost sets in, and then returns the following season. Annuals are plants that you have to set out every year as they will die completely. These include begonias, pansies, geraniums, and other decorative often flowering plants. Until next time…Happy Gardening!!

Jimmie

Send your landscaping and gardening questions to Jimmie Gibson Jr. at http://www.absolutelybushedlandscaping.com or in care of the Prosper Press at  rwilliams@prosperpressnews.com  Jimmie is the owner of Absolutely Bushed Landscaping Company. He is a resident in Prosper. His landscaping and gardening column runs every other week in the Prosper Press.

 

Tired of that area that won't grow anything? Ground Cover is the Answer

Ground covers are low-growing plants; usually less than 12 inches tall, that spread to form dense mats which bind and hold the soil in place. Many also have a season of effective bloom. Turf grass is the most common ground cover. However, sites that are less suitable for turf grass, such as slopes, steep banks, and shaded areas, can often grow other ground covers successfully..

A well-established ground cover generally requires much less maintenance than the typical turf grass lawn. Ground covers are not totally maintenance-free, nor will they always tolerate conditions that will not support a turf.

There are many ways of trying to control weeds. We can remove them by hoeing them out or by burning them with a flame gun! We can try to prevent them growing by putting down mulches. Each of these methods has their advantages and disadvantages and each has situations where they are applicable. In this column we will look at another method of controlling weeds - by growing carefully selected plants that can spread to cover the ground and that will out-compete the weeds

Its primary advantages include:

1. By covering the ground with a carpet of vegetation it prevents the germination of weed seeds.

2. When established, it prevents the ingress of perennial weeds.

3. It protects the soil from erosion and water loss. This can be particularly useful on steep slopes.

4. It acts as an insulating cover for the soil, keeping it cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter.

5. It is living mulch that helps to build up humus levels in the soil.

Selecting a Ground Cover

When deciding which ground cover to plant, consider the plant's height, spread, blooming period, seasonal foliage color, texture, drought tolerance, and whether it is deciduous or evergreen and light condition. The planting site also will affect your choice because each ground cover has specific requirements.

Preparing the Soil

A soil test* will indicate the site's fertility and pH. Most ground covers prefer a slightly acid to neutral soil (between pH 6.0 and 7.0). If the soil is low in nitrogen, incorporate enough 1:2:0 or 1:2:1 fertilizer to apply 1 1/2 to 2 pounds of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet, or about 30 to 40 pounds of 5-10-5 per 1,000 square feet. Applying highly available phosphorus as a starter fertilizer is beneficial for root initiation and plant establishment.

Many ground covers develop crown rot in heavy clay soils that don't drain well. Adding coarse organic matter, such as composted or aged manure, peat moss, landscaping mix or compost can improve the drainage of heavy clay soils and increase the water-holding capacity of light sandy soils. Roto-till or spade the soil to a 6-inch depth and thoroughly incorporate the organic matter at a rate of two to three bushels per 100 square feet.

Soil preparation can cause serious erosion on steep slopes. Working the soil across the slopes in 12- to 24-inch wide bands alternated with undisturbed soil will help reduce erosion. Mulching the slope with a fiber mat will further reduce erosion while conserving moisture and reducing weed competition.

Planting

Ground covers should be planted in the spring or fall. However containerized stock can be planted anytime during the growing season if proper planting and maintenance procedures are followed.

The number of plants needed depends on the spacing of the individual plants their rate of growth and how fast you want the space to fill in. You may want to densely plant a small, highly visible area for rapid fill, but a large area may require sparser planting, with several years being allowed for covering the site.

To estimate the number of plants needed, first determine the size of the site in square feet. Considering the average width of the species and the spacing of individual plants, use Table below to calculate the approximate number of plants you will need.

Planting space required per number of plants.
Space between plants in inches using 50 plants.

4" between plants 7 sq. ft.

6" between plants 16 sq. ft.

8" between plants 28 sq. ft.

12" between plants 64 sq ft.

Ground covers can be planted in either straight or staggered rows. Staggered rows help reduce erosion on slopes by retaining run-off.

Watering

Water new plantings thoroughly and regularly until the roots become established. Once established, water as needed for the ground cover you've selected--each type has different requirements--but apply at least 1 inch of water at each watering to moisten the entire root zone. Applying less water results in a shallow root system which makes the planting more susceptible to drought injury.

Controlling Weeds

Control weeds to enable the newly planted ground cover to form a dense mat. When properly established, ground covers can successfully compete with weeds. Hand weeding is effective, but can be time consuming. Mulching is a practical way to reduce weeds. Nonaggressive annual flowers can be used to fill in spaces in a new planting. They help shade out weeds but do not inhibit the spreading growth of the ground cover. Be sure to provide enough moisture for both plant types so competition is not a problem.

Pre emergent herbicides can be used to control weeds in large plantings. Dacthal, Treflan, and Dymid can be used on most ground covers, but always check the label for specific information on the particular plant.

Mulching

Mulching serves many purposes in a ground cover planting. Two to four inches of mulch around the plants helps control weeds, maintains a more constant soil temperature, conserves soil moisture and reduces erosion on slopes. One thing to remember when mulching newly planted ground cover is your mulch will reduce or eliminate most of your weeding however it will also prohibit the spreading of your ground cover (usually set that back by about one half to a full growing season) Mulching helps to protect plants from winter injury resulting from uneven soil temperatures and soil heaving. Most evergreen ground covers need protection from winter desiccation (drying). I generally always prefer a shredded Cedar or shredded Cypress mulch, it's the most expensive but they are the only ones that do not float and do the best job retaining moisture around your plants.

Question: Jimmie, I know this might sound elementary to you but what exactly is Hardscape?

Thank you so much for all your columns, I have learned so much.

Cristina L. in Prosper

 

Answer: Hi Cristina, please don’t feel bad about not understanding a landscaping term you're not familiar with. Hardscape, or "hardscaping" refers to the inanimate (i.e., non-living) elements of a landscape. This includes elements made from wood, even though wood was once animating (in the form of trees). Living plants, by contrast, constitute the "softscape." In particular, as the name implies, "hardscape" refers to hard elements such as those composed of concrete, brick or stone, in addition to wood. For instance, constructing a patio or deck is a hardscape project, as is a brick walkway, a stone wall, or a wooden fence. But hardscape goes beyond large-scale projects such as these. Any non-living ornamentation in your landscaping is, technically, part of the hardscape.

Until next time…….Happy Gardening!

Jimmie

 

Send your landscaping and gardening questions to Jimmie Gibson Jr. at http://www.absolutelybushedlandscaping.com or in care of the Prosper Press at  rwilliams@prosperpressnews.com Jimmie is the owner of Absolutely Bushed Landscaping Company. He is a resident in Prosper. His landscaping and gardening column runs every other week in the Prosper Press.

www.absolutelybushedlandscaping.com

Should You Aerate Your Lawn? Probably so!

Have you really looked at your lawn lately and noticed it just doesn’t look very healthy?  You are probably pondering about what could be going on and what could be causing this issue.  If, after you have checked for insects, disease, improper watering and know that your lawn is properly fertilized, you might consider aerating your lawn.  Aerating my lawn?  What is aerating and why should I consider doing it?

Aerating is the process of inserting holes in your lawn for better water absorption, nutrient absorption and helping in the process of eliminating thatch.  The problem starts when the top four inches of soil becomes extremely hard and compact.  Like when your trash can is full and you smash it down to make a little more room. 

Eventually you run out of room and there is no place else for the trash to go.  Well this is the general concept of compaction.  The water and nutrients cannot penetrate the soil.  The thatch from lawn mowing, instead of being decomposed and returned to the earth will just sit there inviting molds, mildews, disease and unwanted insects.

Aerating also enhances oxygen levels to your soil thus stimulating root growth and speeding up the decomposition of the thatch decomposing organisms.  In removing the plugs of soil from your lawn this process severs roots, rhizomes and stolons.  The affects of this stimulate your grass to produce new shoots and roots that will fill in the holes and increase the density of your lawn.  It also increases your lawns drought tolerance and you should be able to see an overall improvement in your lawns health.

The type of grass you have (Bermuda or St. Augustine lawns) will pretty much dictate when to aerate and how deep to make your holes. You should allow at least four weeks of good growing weather for your lawn to recover. Most of us in Dallas-Fort Worth area that we consider planting climate zones 7-8 is composed of warm-season grass, aeration should take place in spring or summer when the grass is actively growing.

When aerating your lawn, it is best to aerate on a day where the temperatures are milder and the soil in a moist condition, which will make the aerating process much easier.  Aerating wet soil can be a real nuisance due to the fact that the plugs will get stuck in the hollow tines and can further compact you soil.

How often should I aerate my lawn?  There is no real determination time for this question.  The best way to find out if your lawn needs to be aerated is to do a small test of your soil.  A very simple way to make that determination is to take a screwdriver and insert it into the soil.  If insertion is fairly easy your soil should be just fine.  If insertion is difficult, it is probably time to aerate.

You might only need to do a small area in your yard or possibly a large area.  If you only do a small area, you can use a spading fork for the job to insert holes into the soil.  Although this is not really the recommended way to aerate because it only forces the soil particles around the hole closer together causing more compaction.  It will kind of work, but you will not get the desired affect you are hoping to achieve.  So it is recommended that you purchase a sod-coring tool from your local home improvement store.  These are not very expensive and they do a lot better job.

For larger areas you will have to use an actual aerator.  Since this is an item that you really will not use very often, you can rent one from a local lawn and garden center or there are many other equipment rental businesses that more than likely will have aerator available for rent.

Your penetration depth will depend on the type of soil you have, the moisture levels of your soil, and the tine diameter, weight and power of the aerator.  You can contact a local landscaper or garden center for the specific specifications for you soil type.  You should also leave the soil plugs on the lawn.  Rain and traffic will eventually break the up the plugs.  The plugs are actually very beneficial as they contain microorganisms that help to decompose any layers of thatch that are present.

This is the basics of why you should aerate you lawn and the benefits of aeration.  Once you have decided to aerate and see the end results, you will be glad you did.  If you would like more detailed information on aeration you can do some research on the web or you can contact your local greenhouse or garden and they would be more than willing to give you advice and assistance. Enjoy your almost new lawn!

Question: Hi Jimmie, I am hoping you can help me with my question. I have these funny looking little things growing on my Azaleas. I emailed you a picture from a contact link on your website, (awesome site by the way!) Do you have any idea what they could be? And will they harm my Azaleas? Thank you for your time. Pam C. in Prosper

Answer: Hi Pam, thanks for the compliment and yes I did receive your picture you sent in and have positively identified those as "azalea leaf galls" (or "azalea galls") and are not considered overly serious. They're caused by a fungus. Pick off the leaves where the azalea leaf galls occur and dispose of them properly: Do not put them in the compost and do not leave them lying around on the ground, or the fungus will spread to your other branches. A generic fungicide can be sprayed on your plants late fall or early winter to avoid this from happening again next year.

Until next time…Happy Gardening!!

Jimmie

Send your landscaping and gardening questions to Jimmie Gibson Jr. at http://www.absolutelybushedlandscaping.com or in care of the Prosper Press at  rwilliams@prosperpressnews.com Jimmie is the owner of Absolutely Bushed Landscaping Company. He is a resident in Prosper. His landscaping and gardening column runs every other week in the Prosper Press.

 

Swamped with yard work? Turn off your sprinklers and try this instead!

Just about everything's big in Texas. But when it comes to water, well, there's little to speak of. So how do some Texas homeowners reconcile their desire for vast green yards with a shortage of H₂O? The answer is

Xeriscaping -- a very big word indeed.

Derived from the Greek word xeros, meaning dry, xeriscaping is a form of landscaping that's miserly with water. And while it may conjure up images of tumbleweed landscapes devoid of greenery save the occasional cactus, you can bet your 10-gallon hat that a xeriscaped yard can be as beautiful and lush as any other type of landscape.

Xeriscaping fundamentals include using native and adaptive plants, creating efficient irrigation systems, improving soil quality, and mulching. In places like central Texas, where droughts are so bad you can get fined up to $5,000 for over watering, residents who xeriscape may reduce the amount of water used for yard work by as much as 60 percent. And xeriscaped yards require less work overall -- a big draw for those who have endured unbearably hot summers trying to revive a once-plush blanket of Bermuda grass turned burnt brown.

"Mow grass and drag water hoses -- that's what I did all summer," says Dave Watson, a retired electrician in Dallas, Texas and client of mine recalling the upkeep needed for his old yard. Fed up with the hassle, Watson turned to xeriscaping 11 years ago. Today he grows wildflowers and buffalo grass, a native prairie grass that can be left to grow naturally (it reaches a maximum height of 6 to 8 inches) and is drought- and cold- tolerant. For Watson, it was a cure for the summertime blues: "I love it. There's no watering and fertilizing. A couple times a year, I'll mow. Other than that, I do nothing to take care of it."

Today more than 40 states have xeriscape projects, and because xeriscapes are based on climate, there is great variation: An upstate New York yard teeming with bee balms, sunflowers, tulips, daffodils, grape hyacinths, snowdrops, and daylilies, for example, contrasts sharply with the irises, cornflowers, yarrows, California poppies, and catchflies that thrive in Reno, Nevada. Obviously, a place doesn't have to be parched to benefit from xeriscaping. Most North American landscapes are a disaster ecologically, the whole public has been trained to over water and over fertilize.

Finding what grows well in your yard is key to an effective xeriscape. One rule of the green thumb: Choose plants that are native to within a 50-mile radius of your home. Native plant societies, water districts, and university extension departments often keep such lists. Many cities also have xeriscape demonstration gardens.

Another trick to a successful xeriscape is grouping together plants with similar water needs. For instance, you wouldn't put thirsty roses next to cacti -- the water required for one would be wasted on the other (not to mention they'd have nothing to talk about!). Xeriscaping also allows for an "oasis zone," where gardeners grow a few prized water-guzzling plants. The oasis zone is often located in the front of a home where these plants can be easily watered and admired.

So, is this nation of nozzle junkies ready to dive into xeriscaping? "Most people aren't going to take the plunge," says Watson. "Perhaps if they would try a small section of the yard first, I feel 90 percent of them would be convinced."

Plants used for Xeriscaping should he selected for their low water requirements, adaptability to the region's soil and climate, and visual appeal. South/Central Texas is blessed with an abundance of beautiful native

plants. Most have lower water demands, fewer pest problems and lower fertilizer needs than many exotic plants brought into the area.

Through the efforts of local nurserymen, native Texas plants are readily available in area nurseries and garden centers. Xeriscaping uses many of these native plants; plus many well-adapted exotic plants that also have lower water demands. Sounds like it's time to get our feet wet!
QUESTION: Jimmie, I just planted a 3 gallon Oleander. The one I just planted has one bloom on it. I realize it will take some time to get it to look like it should. Should I prune it and when? Thanks so much for your columns, they really help me out! Pamela B. in Prosper
ANSWER: Hi Pamela,
The oleander requires very little in the way of attention or care. Oleanders are normally grown as multi-trunk shrubs in areas where they are subject to freeze damage. In frost free climates they can be grown as trees. If they do get frozen back, they are normally root hardy in our part of the world and will return vigorously from their roots. Use only 'Hardy Pink' or 'Hardy Red' varieties for minimum cold damage. Since they bloom on new growth, pruning is normally done just before they break dormancy in the spring. Tip pruning at that time will increase the fullness of the plant and therefore the blossoms. While it is no problem unless the plant material is ingested, you need to be aware that all portions of plant are extremely toxic. This means absolutely no marshmallow roasts using the stems for roasting sticks!
QUESTION: Jimmie, I don’t know if you can help me but here goes,
About 7 years ago my husband and I were eating grapefruits and as a joke he put a single grapefruit seed in a planter that had housed a palm tree which had died. Well, a few months later something sprouted and continued to grow......It is now about two feet high and has a small leaf attached to a larger leaf on the stem and also has some serious thorns. Do we have a grapefruit tree? We are looking forward to your reply when you have time, Thank You, Rachael K. in Prosper

ANSWER: Hi Rachael,
Yes, you do!!!! The tree has thorns because it is in a juvenile state. Once the tree matures and starts to flower, it will not have thorns. However, if the tree is only two feet tall after 7 years, it will take a long time for that to happen. It you want to try to get the tree to fruit, you need to put it in full sunlight and fertilize it regularly. Or you can just enjoy the tree as a houseplant. Until next time….Happy Gardening!!

"LEAVES OF THREE LET IT BE"!

This rhyme pertains to the identification of two of the "big three": namely, poison ivy and poison oak. The rhyme does not, however, pertain to identifying the third member of the triad of poisonous plants with which to avoid contact -- the shrub, poison sumac. But people are far more likely to come into contact with the other two members of the triad than with poison sumac.
The plant's 3-leaf trademark mentioned earlier assumes a reddish tinge when the leaves first come out in the spring, but the leaves turn green in the summer. Although the color of its berries is often mentioned as a way of identifying the plant, it is not as reliable as is leaf identification. The berries, after all, are produced only at the end of the growing season; knowing about the berries would do you little good when attempting identification in the spring. Incidentally, poison ivy, poison oak and poison sumac all have white berries. The non-poisonous varieties of sumac have red berries.
But if you're reading this article while plagued with the itching that the plant brings, you'll be much more interested in hearing some treatment tips and the quickest way getting back to life as you normally live it! (I can still remember my first adventure with poison Ivy on a fishing trip with my dad at the age of 6 years old, but of course my dad convinced me it was worth it since we caught all those fish!)

Is Poison Ivy Rash Contagious?

Now that we've identified poison ivy on let's consider the matter of treating poison ivy rash. When we speak of a cure or treatment for poison ivy rash, we generally mean relief from its symptoms. Once the symptoms occur (itchy bumps on your skin), relief is the only remedy we seek -- before we scratch ourselves to death! Different people find different degrees of relief by treating poison ivy rash with over-the-counter remedies, such as hydrocortisones. Despite its inclusion in the classic rock song, "Poison Ivy," even Calamine lotion has its limitations as a treatment.
Some people have such a severe reaction to poison ivy that they need to visit a physician and get a shot. It usually takes about two weeks to get rid of poison ivy rash.
But there is another kind of treatment of poison ivy rash: namely, prevention. If you realize you've just come into contact with poison ivy, take the following steps immediately:

1. Apply rubbing alcohol to the infected area.

2. Rinse with water (any water).

3. Wash up with soap and warm water.

So what makes poison ivy (and poison oak and poison sumac, too)...well, poisonous? The answer is urushiol, which is the sap that runs through all parts of the plant. Grazing against poison ivy with any exposed part of your body is all that it takes to release this poison. Complicating matters further, contact with poison ivy does not even have to be direct for you to contract the rash. For instance, if your dog runs through some poison ivy, then you stroke your dog's fur with your hand; you could come into contact with the sap and develop a rash. Likewise, if someone else had been working in a poison ivy-infested area with gloves, then you came along and touched those contaminated gloves, you could get the rash.

So if the poison is spread that easily, poison ivy must be contagious, right? Wrong. It's only the urushiol that puts you at risk. Scratching your bumps doesn't cause the poison ivy to spread to other areas of your body. Nor will you contract the rash just by touching somebody else's rash bumps.

Poison Ivy Control: Get Rid of It with Organic Methods, Herbicides

First of all, a word about prevention is in order, before discussing any actions to be taken for getting rid of poison ivy plants on the landscape. When approaching poison ivy to engage it in battle, try to have as little of your skin exposed as possible, since it is through physical contact with the plant (any part of the plant!) that the rash is contracted. At the very least, this means wearing gloves, long-sleeved shirt and full-length pants. Secondly, understand that any of the methods discussed below may have to be implemented more than once to achieve complete success.
One organic method to eradicate, or at least control, poison ivy is to pull it out by the roots.

The roots must be disposed of; do not burn! Inhaling fumes from burning poison ivy causes far greater health problems than just the rash caused by skin contact. Another natural method is to smother the poison ivy. Smothering entails cutting it back close to the ground, then placing newspapers, cardboard, old carpeting, tarps, mulch or some other covering on top of it. However, be aware that, even after they are killed, the plants remain toxic. So be careful in disposing of the roots of the dead plants after pulling back the smothering agent (even if you've waited for years).

Herbicides can also be used in the control or eradication of poison ivy. Roundup spray is a popular glyphosate-based herbicide for killing poison ivy. Another widely-available herbicide is Ortho Brush-B-Gon, which is triclopyr-based. But they will kill many other plants, too, so don't use them near plants you wish to keep. If you choose to apply these herbicides by spraying, here's what to do:

You'll need a tank sprayer; mix the product with water, according to directions.

Apply when the poison ivy is fully leafed out.

Pick a day with little or no wind for spraying. Also, check your forecast: don't spray if rain is predicted at any time within the next 24 hours.

For poison ivy growing on the ground or on a wall, heavily spray the leaves and vines of the poison ivy. Old plants have large hairy vines -- another dead giveaway for identifying poison ivy.

For poison ivy climbing up a tree, you may wish to "paint" the herbicide on, so as to preclude damaging the tree with a stray mist from your sprayer.

I’m swamped again with work and I promise to try my best to get to all of your questions as soon as possible. Until next time…Happy Gardening!!

WANT TO ATTRACT HUMMINGBIRDS??

HERE'S HOW!

The soaring aerial acrobats of Cirque de Soleil look like flightless dodo birds compared to the flight of Hummingbirds. Their incredible feats of motion, zipping along at super speed, then stopping to hover and fly backwards, amaze all viewers, especially aviation engineers.

Ruby-throated hummingbirds are the most common type seen in Texas. The males start scouting for food sources a few weeks ahead of the migration of the females and can be seen as early as April. The highest populations congregate around gardens and feeders in July.

Watching aerial antics of hummers is quite entertaining and I offer these following tips to help you entice these colorful little birds to your yard for your mutual enjoyment.

1. Plant masses of flowers that hummers love to sip. They particularly like the colors red, pink, and orange. The list below shows some of their favorite flowers that grow well in our area.

2.Provide perches for the birds using dead branches or planted shrubs that are not too dense. Hummers spend about 80 percent of their time sitting on twigs, branches or clotheslines surveying the area and protecting their food source.

3. Install water feature that drips or mists water. Hummers enjoy bathing and flying through mist, and the sounds of these water features attract their notice. Observing them flying through water vapor is as amusing as watching children play in a sprinkler.

4. Avoid the use of pesticides in your gardens and yard, both inorganic and organic. Killing garden pests eliminates the small insects hummingbirds eat for their protein source. Hummers are very sensitive to toxic materials, which might be retained on the flowers.

5. Put nectar feeders out in mid-April when the scouts start their migration north, looking for routes that have nearby food sources. They will tell their buddies about your roadside diner for their trip later in the spring.

6. Decorate your feeder with red ribbon or bright orange surveying tape. This would be the equivalent of the neon “Eat Here” sign on the hummer highway.

7. Keep your feeder clean and your sugar solution fresh. Wash the feeder with vinegar and hot water (no detergents) and scrub with a bottlebrush at every refill. Replace the sugar water every two or three days.

8. Keep ants out of the feeder by using an ant guard on the feeder hanger. You can purchase them, or make one by drilling a hole in a plastic film canister, sliding the hanger through the hole and filling the canister with water. Ants will not survive the water obstacle and be unable to march down into the feeder, as long as you keep the water level up. 

9. Hang your feeder in a shady spot, or provide shade with an umbrella (a red one would be the best). This keeps the nectar cooler in the heat of the summer.

10. Make your own hummingbird nectar. Boil four cups of water and one cup of white sugar for one minute. Do not use honey or red coloring. You may store this solution for up to two weeks in the refrigerator.

BEST HUMMINGBIRD PLANTS:

Shrubs-

Abelia, Azaleas, Butterfly Bushes, Firebush, Turk’s Cap, Vitex, and Wiegela.

Vines-

Crossvine, Honeysuckle, Morning Glory, Trumpet Vines, Jasmine vines.

Flowers-

Bee balm, Cardinal flower, Columbine, Coral Belles, Impatiens, Pentas, Salvia.

Question:

Jimmie, I have Vinca groundcover in my garden and every summer it seems to die back for some reason. Any thoughts?

Thank you, Cassidy P. in Prosper

Answer:

Hi Cassidy, Your problem sounds like leafrollers. Use a systemic insecticide to treat it. Spray 3 to 4 weeks prior to the time you usually begin having problems. Since the leafrollers get themselves sequestered within the leaves, only a systemic product can reach them.

Question:

Jimmie, Is there anything available at all (Pandas, poison, ANYTHING !!!) we can use to stop the spreading of Bamboo adjacent to a water garden? Thanks in advance,

R.K. in Prosper

Answer:

Dear R.K. Glyphosate herbicides do some good in controlling bamboo, but they are certainly not the perfect answer. The more top growth that is coated with the spray, the better the control will be. However, these herbicides also kill other foliage on which they are sprayed, so you would have to be very selective. Honestly, the best plan is to just dig it out and keep digging new sprouts until it no longer offers to regrow. If you would like to keep it permanently, you should install a root barrier dug 25 to 30 inches into the ground as a means of keeping it in bounds.

Question:

Jimmie, What is the best remedy for grasshoppers? Thanks for all your articles, I really enjoy them!

Cindy B. in Prosper

Answer:

Hi Cindy, Many general-purpose organic and inorganic insecticides are labeled for use on grasshoppers. One of the most important factors is in your means of applying them. It’s usually best to spray down over the tops of your plants so that the spray will coat the grasshoppers as they try to fly away. Of course, cutting all the tall weeds and grass in proximity to your landscape and garden will also help. Until next time…….Happy gardening!!