Friday, October 11, 2013

Tree care tips for this fall

The gardening season isn't over once fall arrives, especially when it comes to your trees. Fall is an excellent time for planting most trees. It's also important to do your fall tree care now to prepare them for winter.
Most trees can be planted in fall. The temperatures are cooler, stressing the trees less and allowing them a better chance to get their roots established. It also helps that by this time in the growing season, some places discount their plant stock.
Young trees are especially susceptible to the temperature changes that come with winter in cold climates. They are usually not developed enough to withstand the constant freezing and thawing that may occur throughout the upcoming winter.
One way to help combat this is with a thick (3-6")mulch layer. Do not put it right up against the trunk - this can cause moisture buildup that attracts fungus.  Better to build up a circular berm around the outside canopy at the base of the tree. Shredded cedar would be best to use.
There's a chill creeping into the air. The leaves are changing colors. Winter is just around the corner. Now is the time to think about properly watering your trees in autumn to help ensure against damage in the winter.
In the middle of winter, the ground is frozen. Trees are not able to access water, so it is important that you are watering your trees in autumn as necessary. Watering your trees in early autumn is different than late autumn, so water accordingly.
In early autumn, you should stop watering your deciduous and evergreen trees. Do not worry about watering until the leaves have fallen from the deciduous trees.
The trees are still growing in early autumn and watering will encourage new growth. If a frost comes when there is new growth on the tree, it will be damaged.
Late Autumn
Once the deciduous trees have lost their leaves in late autumn, it is time to start watering again. Evergreen trees will definitely need to be watered before winter - since they never lose their foliage and go into full dormancy, they will constantly be losing water throughout the winter.
By late autumn, the tops of the trees have gone dormant, so they will not produce new growth. The tree is busy moving nutrients around in preparation for dormancy.
Water deeply (at least 1-2 feet deep at a time) until the ground is frozen. Deep watering encourages proper root growth so that the trees will be able to access water farther down in the soil.
Young trees, especially, need lots of water to establish roots in preparation for winter. Newly planted trees should be watered at the base, while more mature trees should be watered at the drip line. The drip line is the area directly located under the outer circumference of the tree branches. This is where the tiny rootlets are located that take up water for the tree. Trees should be watered here, not by the base of the trunk, or the tree may develop root rot.
Watch for signs that your trees need fertilization. Some signs that may indicate a nutrient problem are:
Reduced growth in branches and leaves.
ab2Yellow or pale green leaves (in those trees that do not turn yellow in fall).
Leaves changing colors and falling earlier than usual.
Wilting
Fertilizing in fall can cause rapid new growth, which could be damaged in winter. Consider fertilizing in spring if possible.
Pruning
Make sure to remove the 3 D's - dead, diseased or damaged. They all serve as points where diseases or pests could enter. Removing them will also make the tree look better. You can also prune branches that aren't growing the way you would like.
Do thin rather than shear on flowering trees - prune lightly because next year's flower buds have already been formed, and heavy pruning would affect the next spring's flower production.

A dormant spray may be a good idea for deciduous trees, ornamentals, fruit trees and shrubs. But remember not to spray until after you prune. Obviously, you will lose much of your effort and expense if you cut off treated limbs.
Choice of chemicals is important. Dormant sprays include lime, copper and sulfur combinations to kill overwintering microorganisms. Dormant oil controls insects and their eggs. You just may need several types of sprays and oils to be effective.
Avoid spraying any of this material in the hot sun as it can damage dormant buds. Get specific chemical recommendations from you local county extension agent.
Question: Jimmie, How long into the fall season should I continue to mow the lawn? Thanks for your time, I always enjoy learning from your articles!!  Richard P. in Prosper

Answer: Hi Richard, thanks for the kind words. Those of us who despise mowing can't wait to retire the mower for another year. But don't be too hasty. Nor should you think that, just because you stopped mowing last year on such-and-such a date, the same end-date will be valid this year. This question's a lot easier to answer than you might imagine. Simply continue to mow the lawn until the grass stops growing! 



Weather will determine this, not some artificial deadline. Until next time...Happy Gardening!!
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