Keys To A Successful Lawn

What You Need To Know To Ensure Healthy Turf:

1. MOWING

Timely mowing will have a big impact on health, weed control and thickness of your lawn. The general rule of thumb to go by is to remove not more than one-third of the leaf blade at any one time. For some turf grass varieties, this could actually mean mowing every 3-5 days during summer when growth is most active.

2. WATERING

Water as deeply and infrequently as possible during dry spells, ideally 1 to 1-1/2 inches per week, depending on soil type. Watering every 3 to 5 days, even in the hottest days of summer, should be sufficient if you water deeply.

3. AERATING

Aerating is a mechanical method that pulls cores of soil from the lawn to allow better penetration of air and water. The best time of year to aerate is from mid-May through June, although July and August are also acceptable months as well.

4. VERTICUTTING

Also known as vertical mowing, this process thins and rejuvenates the lawn. When used on warm-season turf grasses, verticutting functions as a different form of aeration. Verticutting is used with cool-season turf grasses when overseeding in the fall. It thins the turf and allows the seed to fall through the grass and make contact with the soil. Thus improving your seed germination.

5. FERTILIZING

Most of our lawns in North Texas are best fertilized using a 3-1-2-ratio fertilizer. An example would be 15-5-10 or 24-8-16. The first number on the bag is Nitrogen. You can apply the fertilizer every 6 to 8 weeks. To prolong the greening between applications, use a fertilizer product that has its nitrogen in a slow release form. An organic method is to apply ½ inch of well-decomposed compost evenly across the lawn twice a year.

6. PRE-EMERGENT WEED CONTROL

Pre-emergents disrupt seeding development, so the timing of your treatments is crucial. Spring applications of Balan, Betasan, Team or other labeled products should be applied around March 1^st and again around June 1^st for summer annual grassy weeds. Your fall treatments should be applied around September 10^th using two different pre-emergent products on the same day. The first is for grassy winter annual weeds, using any of the previously named products. The second is to apply Portrait or Gallery next to prevent winter annual broadleaf weeds.

7. POST-EMERGENT WEED CONTROL

Broadleaf weeds are controlled with an herbicide containing 2,4-d. Use a dedicated sprayer and apply at the labeled rate according to turf type when temperatures are between 55 and 85 F. In Bermuda grass lawns only, grassy weeds are controlled with DSMA or MSMA between May and September. Nutgrass can be reduced over several seasons by applying Image or Manage between May and mid-September.

8. TREATING DISEASES

For brown patch in St. Augustine, treat the area around affected patches with Terraclor or Bayleton in late spring and especially early fall. Leaf spot diseases in turf grasses are controlled with Daconil, Banner, or Mancozeb. Avoid fertilizing when a disease is present in your yard.

9. CONTROLLING INSECTS

Generally found in hot, sunny areas of St. Augustine lawns, chinch bugs have an irregular feeding pattern from June through August. Water before and after treatment with a granular Talstar or synthetic pyrethroid product. Grub worm activity usually starts in early August and continues until early November. If discolored areas of turf pull up easily and 4 to 6 grub worms are present in a 1-square-foot area, treat with a granular Mach II, Merit or a pyrethroid product and water into soil.

Prior to making any pesticide application to your lawn, please be responsible by correctly identifying the problem you have. Pesticide labels are frequently amended, added or deleted for specific crops or pests. Therefore carefully examine the actual label of the pesticide product before use. Please read and follow all label directions. Until next time…happy gardening!!

Jimmie