Friday, July 19, 2013

Want to learn to grow Agave??
   
Overview and Description:
At first glance, you probably wouldn’t called agave plants rosettes. So many of the common ones are spiny succulents, with leaves that jut out in often dangerous looking spikes. There is actually a lot of variety in the agave genus. There are the large, stiff specimens that can grow to 20 feet in diameter. There are also small dish-sized agaves and agave plants with soft leaves and no spines. Most have leaves that do end in a sharp point.

ab1Leaves: Agaves are all stemless, or nearly so, with strappy, succulent leaves that end in sharp points. Foliage tends toward a blue-green in hardier varieties and a gray-green in warm climate varieties. There are also some that are variegated varieties with gold or white markings.

Flowers: When the plant matures, a tall, flower-stalk grows out of the plant’s center. The flowers are bell-shaped and long lasting, in shades of white, yellow and green. For most agave species, once the flowers produce the berry seed pods, the plant dies. But this can take years.
Botanical Name:
Agave
Common Name(s):
Sometimes referred to as the Century Plant, although that name is specific to Agave americana
Hardiness:
Most are not very frost hardy, but there are agaves, like Agave parryi, that are hardy to USDA Zone 5, but most are only hardy in Zones 8 or 9 and up.
Light Exposure:
Full sun to partial shade
Mature Size:
Varies from a few inches to 20+ feet in diameter.
Bloom Period:
Agaves bloom once, at maturity. That can be anywhere from 5 to 40 years. They tend to bloom earlier in cultivation than they would in the wild. Most plants die after flowering.
Design Tips:
One large agave is all that is needed to make a sculptural focal point. Just make sure there is lenty of room to walk around it, so no one gets stabbed. They can also make a great border grouping, either by planting several of the same species or a tapestry of different varieties. They are textural and sculptural and make a vivid contract with other plants. Pairing them with ornamental grasses softens their hard edges. In really warm climates, agave are popular around pools and patios. Their leaves don’t brown and drop frequently and they stay attractive all year. I’d suggest using a spineless variety, like the Foxtail Agave (Agave attenuata). Smaller agave plants are excellent for containers, indoor or outside.
Suggested Varieties:
Agave attenuata - A popular spineless variety also known as the Foxtail or Dragon-Tree Agave. Grows about 4 - 5 feet tall and a bit wider.
Agave parviflora - Leaves have white, graphic markings and curlng filaments that give it a hairy look. It only gets about 6 in. Tall and blooms in 6 - 8 years with green flowers on a 4 - 6 ft. spike.
Agave tequilana azul - Weber's Blue Agave is used to make a tequila, in Jalisco, Mexico, but it is also a very attractive garden plant, reaching upwards of 6 ft. tall and flowering in 6 - 8 years with a 15 ft. spike of yellow blooms.
Agave victoria-reginae - As the plant matures, the broad leaves cup inward, forming a dome. Reaches a height of about 12 in.. Cream flowers appear in 20 - 30 years
Growing Tips:
Agaves thrive on neglect. They grow quickly and remain attractive all year.
Propagation: Since it can take years for agaves to produce seed, most are propagated by off sets or tissue culture.
Soil: Agave will tolerate any well-draining soil, but their preference is rocky or sandy soil. They are not particular about soil pH.
Water: When you are first establishing a plant outdoors, water it every 4 - 5 days for the first month. Then once a week, gradually spacing watering to every other week, depending on the weather.
Feeding: Don’t. Agaves seem to take care of themselves. Feeding encourages flowering, which you don’t want to happen too soon.
Growing in Containers: Container Grown Agaves: As with many succulent plants, agaves are shallow rooted. You can grow them in any size container, because they don’t need allot of soil. Use a well-draining soil. You can mix your own with something like 2 - 3 parts potting mix and 1 part gravel.
Repot container grown plants every couple of years, with new soil. Agaves can produce sucker roots. If the pot is overly crowed with roots, go ahead and cut it back to size. Give the plant a week or so to readjust, before you water it again.
Water about once a week in the summer and monthly in the winter, when the surface of the soil is dry. Plants in containers or in dry conditions may need more frequent water, but agaves are very forgiving.
Want to grow Agave indoors?
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Agave can be exceptional houseplants, depending on which one you buy. There are about 450 species of agave, including the famous century plant (which, for the record, does flower more often than once a century). As desert plants, agave appreciate direct, abundant sunlight and very light water. They are slow-growing, so even specimens that grow into large plants can be kept inside for a period of time before they outgrow the room. Agave are not very "people friendly;" their sap tends to be irritating and most of them feature truly intimidating spines on their leaves that make brushing against them a painful adventure.
Light: Bright sunlight year-round. Consider moving your plants outside during the summer, where they can enjoy full sunlight, and make sure they get plenty of winter light.
Water: In spring, water with warm water just as the soil begins to dry out. Don't let the soil become completely dry. In the winter and fall, when growth is suspended, water very lightly.
Temperature: They prefer warm spring and summer temperatures (70-90ºF) and cooler fall and winter temps (50-60ºF).
Soil: Use standard succulent or cacti potting mix.
Fertilizer: Feed in spring and summer; do not feed during fall and winter.
Grower's Tips:

Agave is not a difficult plant to grow. They're slow-growing and dramatic and will even thrive on a some neglect. If you're the type of person who likes to fuss with houseplants and water a lot, agave might not be the plant for you. If, however, you're the type of person who likes to set it and forget it, and you have a sunny window, agave might the way to go. Be aware that some of the large varieties will eventually outgrow your room (unless you have a large greenhouse), and agave can be aggressive. They have irritating sap and sometimes very sharp thorns that can cause injuries to small children and even pets. Unitl next time...Happy Gardening!! 


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Monday, July 8, 2013

Planning to dig? Beware of buried utilities!

A recent report by the Common Ground Alliance (CGA) states that Americans strike underground utilities approximately once every minute. Apart from the risk of serious injury, unintentionally damaging buried utilities causes interruption of service as well as a lot of time and expense to put everything right.
Assuming you survive the gas explosion, electrocution or flood (or all three) you could face a hefty fine and some frosty glares from your neighbors.
To make matters worse, many homeowners plan to stay in their current homes this year, rather than sell in an uncertain market, and, according to a survey cited by the CGA, 81 percent said they would take on some form of home and/or landscape improvement. Additionally, 40 percent said they “planned to dig more” this year than in the previous twelve months.
The survey also found that 63 percent would choose to take on their own digging projects, rather than hire a professional contractor. In rural areas, that number climbs to 74 percent of homeowners.
So what does this mean to you?
Should you abandon your plans to plant those dogwood trees or build that shady arbor you’ve always promised yourself? Certainly not! There’s never been a better time to upgrade your landscape, whether you’re planning to stay and enjoy the fruits of your labor, or to increase the curb appeal of your house in a tough real estate market.
But you DO need to know where those underground utilities are before you dig. And some can be a lot closer to the surface than you might think.
And for once, the solution really is remarkably easy. There is a single three-digit phone number you can call from anywhere in the United States. That number is 811.
The “call before you dig” number is free and will be routed to your local utility companies. They in turn send out a professional locator to mark the location of utility lines on your property. Again the service is free.
May has been designated Safe Digging Month to celebrate the first anniversary of the launch of the 811 program. Among the recommendations from the CGA:
Always call 811 before digging, regardless of the depth or familiarity with the property.
Tell neighbors, co-workers, family and friends about 811 if they discuss their plans for an outdoor home improvement project with you.
Plan ahead. Call on a Monday or Tuesday for work planned for an upcoming weekend, providing ample time for all lines to be marked.
Avoid starting projects until you’re sure all lines are marked. Confirm that all lines have been marked by contacting your local one-call center.
If you do decide to use a contractor, be sure to ask them to confirm that an 811 call has been made.
You can find out all you need to know at www.call811.com it might be a good idea to write “811” in big letters on a card and tape it over your digging tools in your shed or garage!
So you’ve called 811, your utilities are clearly marked. What to plant?
Red Bud Forest Pansy
This is a really attractive ornamental tree that is perfect for a small garden, with deep maroon color lasting all summer long. Blooming in early spring, it prefers full or partial sun and well-drained soil.
Japanese Maple
These beautiful maples are quite versatile, looking good as a specimen multi-stem shrub, a small tree or in plant groupings. A good choice for an urban setting as they tolerate crowding from other plants and don’t mind the lack of full sun.
So dig away, but call 811 before you do!
Question: Jimmie, I planted some new Salvia last spring and took off immediately and was doing wonderful. I cut it back last fall and it came out this year and looked liked it was going to do well again and then it seemed to stop blooming all together? What can I do to get more blooms again? Thank you for your time. Janet P. in Mckinney.

Answer: Hi Janet, The slowdown on your blooming Salvia is pretty normal. Very few perennials actually bloom no more than 3-4 weeks a season. Your plants will look better and bloom longer if you cut them back by about 50 percent sometime around February. This will promote allot of new growth and blooms. I would also cut them back again by about 25 percent in early August to reshape them before the fall bloom again. 

Until next time…Happy Gardening!!

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