Absolutely Bushed

2012-02-09T12:31:00.001-08:00

The Greatness Of Growing Your Own Herbs

Believe it or not, growing your own herbs is not only a great way to bring a little green into your kitchen but also a great way to add wonderful flavors to your food year round. Most of us will agree that herbs add great value and flavor to our food. Many of us have favorite herbs that we use often and in every day cooking. Some of us rely more heavily on herbs than others. If you use herbs frequently while cooking, a small herb garden is a great investment for your home.Unfortunately they generally come at great expense. Herbs are expensive to purchase in stores so growing your own is not only a fantastic way to lower your grocery expenses over time. In fact, taking a look through your kitchen cabinets and spice racks are a great way of deciding which herbs will be best for you to grow. Choose herbs for your garden that you use most frequently if this is something that have any uncertainty about at all. If you are still at a loss or just beginning to add herbs to your kitchen inventory some great herbs to start your garden with include: rosemary, basil, sage, mint, parsley, and dill. There are others of course and you really should choose herbs that you are interested in cooking with. Don't waste your time and effort on herbs that you will not use instead focus your care on herbs that will be great additions to your home or office.You have the world (or at least your home, yard, or garden) from which to choose a location for your herb garden. I find that kitchen windowsills or window boxes are great places for growing herbs. Others grow them outside their homes in fertile soil that has excellent drainage. The water cannot remain saturated if you want your herb garden to grow properly. A great way to achieve proper drainage is to layer the bottom of your growing area with a layer of gravel. Keep in mind that growing herbs outside you will want to get the most full sun exposure to them as possible.You should also note that herbs grow best from seeds rather than transported plants. In addition to this, you should learn a little about the herb and their individual growth tendencies before planting. Some tend to overtake gardens due to their aggressive nature and should be potted rather than planted in open soil. You should also provide individual pots for some of these plants rather than planting them all together or in a window box. It will be tempting to want to pluck the leaves from your plant as soon as they make their appearance. This is not the wisest course of action. You should really allow your plant plenty of time (several months in fact) to establish before enjoying its bounty. You will be glad in time that you waited and doing so will allow you to deplete the supply of herbs you have on hand. Growing your own herbs is not only delicious and valuable it is also a great way to get your hands into the good earth and can also be quite therapeutic.

Question: Jimmie, I planted some Tulip bulbs I had the end of summer and they never came up? I am doing something wrong? Wendy L. in Prosper

Answer: Hi Wendy, Wow! Okay let me try to answer that without writing a book here. When you say "I planted bulbs" I assume you just did not dig a hole in the ground and plant them correct? All new plantings whether it be bulbs, trees, shrubs, ground covers, vines need to have proper soil preparation by adding organic soil conditioners to your planting area before even considering planting anything. Then depending on how depleted that area was before doing your soil prep you might even consider adding extra food for those new plantings to thrive.Now that we have addressed the prep for your planting area we need to discuss your timing on your Tulip bulb planting. Tulips are generally planted in Very late November through mid December depending on our temperatures. Most Tulip bulbs are purchased in September and October and are refrigerated until it's time to plant them. You determine exact planting time when the ground temperature is the same as your refrigerator. When the ground temperature starts warming late winter that is when you see the bulbs sprouting out of the ground.Wendy, I hate to tell you that your bulbs more than likely rotted and fell apart underground but hopefully my answer will help you be more successful in the future. Until next time...Happy Gardening!!

2012-01-26T11:38:00.000-08:00

These roses are easy to grow and verylow maintenance

Is this the year to add that rose garden to your landscape? Or would youlike to see a colorful rose hedge softening the appearance of a backyard fenceor bordering a driveway?
Perhaps you’ve been putting it off, believing that roses are tricky plantsto grow and you’re not sure you’re up to the task. Yes, some roses haveacquired a reputation for being finicky plants. But if you select the rightvarieties, you will find they are a lot less demanding than you think.
Roxanne and I particularly like the varieties collectively known as“Knockout Roses.” In fact, we have a Knockout rose hedge at our home thatdemands very little of our time and attention.
Rose,Knockout Red
If you’re looking for a low-maintenance, disease-resistant, red shrub rose,this is probably the one you need. We’ve been amazed at its outstandingblooming capability. We’ve found that it will bloom from the early spring tothe last frost in late fall. In 2004, it was designated the ARS Members Choiceby the American Rose Society.
If you plant Knockout Red early in the season, you should see impressiverepeat blooms the first year. In cooler weather, the blooms are a fluorescentfire-engine red, becoming a deep, dense pink in the heat of summer.
If you live in a humid area or tend to have fairly harsh, windy winters,you’ll find Knockout Red to be a hardy plant. Another benefit is that it isvery resistant to the dreaded black spot and the tough leaves actually resistJapanese beetles.
Rose,Knockout Pink
If you’d prefer a more delicatecolor, go for the Knockout Pink. Maturing into a neat 3’ x 3’ shrub, it sportsbright pink blooms that stay throughout the growing season into late fall.
The petals fall cleanly so it doesn’t need deadheading. As with otherKnockout varieties, the pink is disease-resistant, drought-tolerant andrequires only 3 to 4 hours of sunlight a day.
Rose, Drift
If any of the Knockout Rose varieties are too tall for your planting areathen you should consider the "Drift" variety to accommodate thoseareas. Think of carpet Roses when you plant the Drift Rose. They top out atabout two feet tall and grow laterally. They are just as disease resistant asthe Knockouts and come in Red, Pink, Coral, Peach and White. Ground-coverroses also have become favorites among professional landscape designers. Theyknow these low-growing roses will provide years of performance for theirclients. They will bloom about 9-10 months out of the year.

FairyRose
While not a member of the Knockout Rose family, this one certainly deservesa mention. The Fairy has been around for a long time, 70 years or more, and canbe seen at many of the country’s heritage gardens.
It produces delicate rosettes in clusters of pale pink from early springuntil late frost. When the shrubs are spaced about 3 feet apart, they quicklymature into a solid 3 foot tall hedge of color in a sunny garden. Fairy wouldalso be a nice focal point in a patio garden or as a colorful addition along afoundation.
You don’t have to be a dedicated rosarian to create a successful and colorfulrose garden. Choose varieties, such as those I’ve described here, that arelow-maintenance and disease resistant, and you can enjoy the sight and scent ofroses all season with very little effort.
Question: Jimmie, I have Mondograss as a groundcover under somelarge shade trees. It has started to move into my stone path and I’d like toknow what I can use to kill it that won’t harm the tree roots. Also how can Icontain it so that I won’t have to spray it again? Thank you so much for yourtime. Sharon L. in Prosper.
Answer: Hi Sharon, The easiestway is to dig a trench at the edge of the bed and install a 4- to 6-inchedging. Baked enamel 4-inch edging works well for many gardeners as long as its driven completely into the soil. Try Round Up or one of its descendants as aspray to control it.
Question: Jimmie, we have severalnice beds of Wood Ferns. When isthe best time to dig and divide them? Thank you, we really enjoy your columns.Diane and Mark Johnson in McKinney.
Answer: Hi Diane and Mark, Diggingand dividing perennial Fernshinges around the dormant season. Since WoodFerns die to the ground, you either need to move them before they diecompletely back or move them at the very tail end of winter. If you choose thelatter, you have to do so before they start sending out new sprouts of growthin early spring. Until next time…Happy Gardening!!

2012-01-20T09:15:00.000-08:00

Your Deck: Paint or Stain??

One of the most common questions for those who have decks attached to their homes is whether they should paint or stain the deck. There are a number of factors that should be taken into consideration when you make this decision. In this article, we can discuss these and help you understand what works best for different situations.

Decks are extremely vulnerable to the elements. Because they are usually horizontal slats, water can collect and cause rotting and decay. Decks are subject to the direct rays of sunlight. This constant bombardment of the elements can speed up the process of cracking and drying and splintering of the wood used to build the deck. Even decks built with pre-treated wood are not immune to the constant effects of nature. Decks built with pre-treated wood are more able to withstand termites and decay but they still should be treated with some type of good sealer to help prevent long term damage.

Along with keeping your deck safe from the elements, your decision on what to use as a protective covering can also determine how your deck will look. The choice of a clear sealer or a colored stain is an aesthetic one you will need to make based on how you would like your deck to look. A clear sealer will preserve the natural coloration of some of the more common woods used to build decks like redwood, cedar, and cypress.

Using a coating application on your deck is most common when pressure treated wood has been used to build the deck. Most pressure treated wood has a greenish tint and using a coating can cover the tint giving your deck the look you desire and the look that matches your home and landscaping. Both a sealer and a coating can be used but you should insure that the sealer is applied well before you do use any coating. You should also give the sealer ample time to soak in and dry before coating the deck.

If you decide that painting is the route to go when it comes to suiting your deck design flavor you should remember that is essential that you apply two coats of primer before you begin painting. You also should make sure that the primer you use is good quality exterior primer that can stand the rigors that Mother Nature will throw its way. Use a roller or paint brush to apply your primer so that the primer will actually penetrate the wood rather than simply lying on the surface. Be sure the first coat is completely dry before applying the second and that both coats of primer are dry before painting. Choose a paint that is designed for porches as they are designed to deal with the traffic that will come their way.

Staining is the more common approach when it comes to decks as many homeowners, (myself included) prefer to enhance the natural look of the wood rather than hide it beneath layers of color. If you choose to stain your deck you should take extra care that you have pressure washed your deck and removed dead fibers, dirt, and any mildew spots that may be present before beginning to stain the wood.

Staining will work to protect your deck from not only the damage that can brought on by rain and standing water but also the damage the sun can bring through UV rays. Staining your decks does require some degree of maintenance and your decks will probably need to be reassessed every 2-4 years in order to ensure the maximum protection for your deck.

Sealers and coatings can be applied with a number of tools. You can use brushes, paint brooms, rollers and sprayers. In the case of a sealer, the best tool to use would be a brush because you are able to insure you get a complete coat on your deck and the brush will help insure any pores are filled as well. For a coating the best tool to use would be a roller. With a roller you can insure a nice even coating without leaving brush strokes or marks in the paint.

Should your deck only need a sealer, you can use a sprayer each year to lightly recoat the deck with to recover high traffic areas and areas where the elements may have caused more exposure. Because your first initial coating was generously applied with a brush, you would not get any additional soaking of the wood so using a sprayer would be sufficient to recover most areas.

There is one other advantage to using a sealer as well. Sealers can help protect your deck against wear and tear on the wood surface directly. Sealers can also prevent many scuff marks from shoes and chairs and tables. Sealers will also help keep other liquids that may be spilled on your deck from soaking into the wood and causing further damage.

By following these simple guidelines you will insure the beauty and use of your deck for years to come and can avoid expensive and time consuming repairs. Until next time...Happy Gardening!!

2012-01-13T13:32:00.000-08:00

Landscaping Back Yards for 4-SeasonInterest

Have you noticed that we aredemanding more and more out of our landscapes? For the upscale, this may takethe form of outdoor kitchens with all the amenities of home, or, perhaps, largein-ground swimming pools with Jacuzzis built right into them. For the averageperson, the trend is toward something a bit more modest: namely, landscapingback yards with an eye to all four seasons.

Modest,yes; unimportant, no. Since we use our properties year-round, why shouldn'tthere be something to catch our attention at any time of year, even in the deadof winter? Something to gladden our hearts and put a twinkle in our eyes, sothat our back yards continually delight us? That is the goal of landscapingback yards for 4-season interest.

1. You must discover when particularplants put on their best show.+++

2. And, based on this knowledge, youmust aim for a planting plan that is "staggered." That is, make sureyour back yard doesn't end up with a plethora of high-performers for the springand summer displays, for instance, while quite neglecting the fall and winterdisplays. Instead, distribute the beauty across the four seasons, as equally aspossible.

Landscapingback yards for 4-season interest begins by drawing a landscape plan. Trees andshrubs simply take up too much space for you to plant them haphazardly, unlessyour property is very large. For smaller properties, it is better to allocatespace for trees and shrubs in a methodical and disciplined manner, so that theydon't end up outgrowing their homes and causing you problems.

Consequently,tree and shrub selection must take into consideration the mature sizes of theplants. Other practical issues must also be addressed, such as the zone inwhich you live and the sun and soil requirements for the trees and shrubs thatyou have in mind.

Onceyou've researched the practical issues, you can give free rein to your morecreative side. Again, the idea is to distribute the color that trees and shrubsoffer across the four seasons, as equally as possible, so as to achieveyear-round interest.

The Spring Season

Achievingcolor on the landscape in mid-spring generally isn't a problem, since there areso many flowering trees and shrubs from which to choose. If you plan carefully,late spring needn't take a backseat to April and early May, in terms of color.Lilacs are a long-time favorite that will bring color to the landscape in latespring. To supplement your lilacs, two other plants to consider are mountainlaurels and hawthorns.

The Summer Season

Insummer, the brilliant spring blooms on trees and shrubs give way to just plainold leaves. It can be a challenge to find any trees and shrubs that will bloomfor a significant amount of time during the summer season. In the SoutheasternU.S., the long blooming period of crape myrtle trees is a boon to summerlandscaping. In the North, your savior is long-blooming rose of sharon, whoseflowers conveniently hold off until the second half of the summer.

The Fall Season

Whilefloral color reigns triumphant at the beginning of the growing season, at itsend it is foliage color that is king. I have collected a number of resources onthe best fall foliage trees, including the must-have maples, and the best shrubsand vines for fall color, but here I would like to draw your attention to twoplants in particular that are useful -- and overlooked -- in extending the fallfoliage season.

Ilove the exquisite harvest colors of autumn and feel the fall foliage season istoo short-lived. To get a jump on the fall foliage display, plant sumac shrubs,which usher in the autumn season well before the maples. Sumac's fall foliagewill help bridge the gap between the last rose of sharon bloom and the firsthint of color on your maples.

Butdon't stop there! The best color of the maples will be gone part way throughOctober, so you also need a fall foliage specimen that takes the torch from themaples and carries it a bit closer to the winter season. Oak trees will do justthat, albeit usually with less flare than the incomparable maple treesavailable to us.

The Winter Season

Butalas, despite your best efforts to prolong the fall foliage season, winter willsurely come, eventually. What then? What do you have to work with once thetrees have dropped their leaves and the spring blooming period is still monthsaway? Indeed, winter poses the greatest challenge to the goal of achievingyear-round interest on your landscape.

Asremarked above, your choices for color are more limited in winter than in theother seasons. With the exception provided by evergreen trees and shrubs, thewinter landscape is largely dominated by the colors, white, grey and brown.That is not to say that you do not have some choices. Red osier dogwood(Cornus sericea 'Allemans') has an attractive reddish bark. A patch offiery red osier dogwood against a backdrop of pristine snow makes for anunforgettable winter scene. The bark of the Lacebark Elm is also quiteattractive this time year as well. Until next time...Happy Gardening!!

2012-01-13T13:25:00.000-08:00

JapaneseYews

Many kinds of yewbushes and trees are grown on the landscape, including Japanese yews, Englishyew bushes and crosses between the two. But as always when discussing plants,it's best to begin with the taxonomy, to ensure that everyone knows the exact plant to whichwe're referring. In the case of yew bushes, we must pay particular attention tothe taxonomy of the Japanese yews.

When people use the common name, "Japanese yews," muchconfusion can arise. All true yews belong to the genus, Taxus. Thatincludes Taxus cuspidata, plants which bear the common name,"Japanese yews." However, plants of an entirely different genus,namely, Podocarpus macrophylla, are also commonly referred to as"Japanese yews," so be careful. This is just one more instanceillustrating why we use scientific names ofplants when precision is required.

Yew bushes often serve either as foundation plants around ahouse or in hedges. Varieties used in privacy hedges are oftenproportionately taller than they are wide (since you need the extra height forscreening). By contrast, yews with a spreading habit are more suitable asfoundation plants or in short, decorative hedges. Yew bushes are slow growers.This is not necessarily a drawback for shrubs used as foundation plants, sincea slow growth-rate means lower maintenance (i.e., less pruning). However,homeowners who plant hedges (especially hedges specifically for privacy)usually desire quick results. If you have your heart set on using yew bushes toform a hedge, buy mature plants; otherwise, the wait will be unbearable foryou.

All yew bushes are needle-bearing evergreens. The foliage onmost is soft, dense and is a dark green color on top, with a lighter underside.The needles are flat. Most yew bushes can be grown in zones 4-7 in a soil with a neutral pH; they are generally evergreen. Yew bushes produce red berriescalled "arils."

Yew bushes can be grown in sun or shade. Their shade-tolerance giveslandscape designers an important option in challenging areas. Another sellingpoint is the ease with which overgrown yew bushes can be rejuvenated. Mostmature evergreens do not respond well to a severe pruning. Arborvitae and yew bushes arethe exceptions.

Sizes and shapes vary widely between the different varieties ofyew bushes. It is important to be aware of these differences. Yew bushessuitable as foundation plants or short, decorative hedges won't necessarily bea good fit for privacy hedges, and vice versa. Let's take a look, then, at someof the cultivars of yew bushes, what they look like and common uses for them.English yew bushes (Taxus baccata) and Japanese yews (Taxus cuspidata)are among the most popular, as are their hybrid crosses (Taxus × media),which include Hicks yews (or "Hick's" yews) and Taunton yews.

Irish Yew Bushes, Japanese Yews, Hicks Yews,Taunton Yews

1 Spreading English yewbushes (Taxus baccata 'Repandens'): spreading growth habit, 2'-4' highby 12'-15' wide, and used as foundation plants or in short, decorative hedges.My favorite is "Pringles" variety.

2 Irish Yews (Taxusbaccata 'Fastigiata'): columnar shape, 15'-30' high by 4'-8' wide, and usedin privacy hedges; one of the English yew bushes.

3 "EmeraldSpreader" Japanese yews (Taxus cuspidata 'Monloo'): spreadinggrowth habit, 30" high by 8'-10' wide, and used as foundation plants or inshort, decorative hedges.

4 Hicks yews (Taxus ×media 'Hicksii'): columnar shape, 12'-20' high by 6'-10' wide, and used inprivacy hedges.

5 Taunton yews (Taxus× media 'Tauntonii'): spreading growth habit, 3'-4' high by 3'-4' wide, andused as foundation plants or in short, decorative hedges; resists winter-burn.

The oil derived from yew bushes, taxol, is used for treatingbreast and ovarian cancer. But don't let that fool you: all parts of yew bushesare poisonous, except for the fleshy red berry. And since yew seeds arepoisonous, and the seed matures within the berry, even the latter can beconsidered "off limits." Keep small children away from yew bushes!

Yews and Christmas Decorating

To end on a lighter note about yews.... Yews have long been apart of the Christmastradition in Britain and elsewhere in Europe.Not only have sprigs been cut from yews to be used like Christmasholly, but even whole yews have served asChristmas trees. As I note in my article on the historyof Christmas trees, it was Prince Albert whosolidified the place of the Christmas tree in Britain. But Albert's tree wasn'tthe first. That honor falls to the yew set up as a Christmas tree by Queen Charlotte, anotherroyal of German descent, in 1800:

Prince Albert is usually credited withintroducing the Christmas tree that graces nearly every house and high streetin December. In truth, they appeared 40 years earlier. Queen Charlotte, thewife of George III, had a yew tree hung with sweets and toys and illuminatedwith small wax candles for a party for local children at Windsor on ChristmasDay in the year 1800.

I hope all of you have a Merry Christmas!Until next time...Happy Gardening!!

2012-01-13T13:19:00.000-08:00

TransplantingTrees and Shrubs

Transplanting trees and shrubs appears aneasy task -- deceptively so! Many transplants die due to impropertransplanting. But if you're about to give a facelift to a landscape designthat has been neglected for years, then you will need to move existing plantmatter, whether for relocation or for disposal. If you opt for shrub and treetransplanting, you must take steps to improve the likelihood of survival.

Here'sHow:

Location, location, location! Prior to transplanting, determine whether the tree or shrub likes sun or shade, and what its spacing and watering requirements are. For instance, don't locate a plant that craves water next to one that prefers dry conditions: their needs will be incompatible.

Dig the new hole before you dig up the tree or shrub. Once you dig up the plant, the longer its roots go without a home,the lower your chances for successful transplanting.

Estimate the width and depth of the root ball by doing a bit of exploratory digging around the plant. The width of the new hole should be twice that of the root ball. The depth should be kept a bit shallower, to avoid puddling and consequent rotting.

When you reach the bottom of the new hole,resist the temptation to break up the soil beneath. You would think that this would help the tree or shrub, allowing its roots to penetrate deeper. Instead,it could cause the tree or shrub to sink, inviting rot.

Dig out the tree or shrub selected for transplanting. But don't start digging right at the base of a mature tree or shrub. Rather, start digging about 3 feet out from the base, all along the perimeter. Get a feel for where the main mass of roots lies. Also begin tojudge what the weight will be of plant + roots + soil clinging to roots. You may need someone to help lift it!

The idea is to keep as much of the root ball (roots + soil) intact as possible. But the larger the plant is, the chances of getting anything close to the entire rootball will diminish -- and you wouldn't be able to carry it anyhow! Usually you will have to cut through some roots ona mature plant (usually with a sharp shovel or with pruners -- make a good,clean cut).

Once you've removed enough soil from around the sides of the plant, you'll eventually be able to slip your shovel under it and begin to loosen the plant's grip on the soil below it. After it's loose,spread a tarp on the ground nearby and gently move the tree or shrub onto the tarp.

Using the tarp as a transporting medium,drag the tree or shrub over to the new hole (dug in steps 1-4). Gently slide it into the hole, and get it straight. Shovel the excavated soil back into thehole. Tamp this soil down firmly and water it as you go, to eliminate air pockets. The formation of air pockets could cause the tree or shrub to shift after transplanting. At that point it is a good idea to add root stimulator tohelp acclimation and promote new root growth

Mound up the soil in a ring around the newly transplanted tree or shrub, forming a berm that will catch water like a basin. This will help you achieve your main objective from here on out --keeping the new transplant's roots well watered, until it becomes established.

Spread a 3" layer of landscape mulch around the new transplant. But keep it a few inches away from the base of the tree or shrub, to promote air circulation and so as not to invite rodents from nibbling on the trunk. Rodents become emboldened by the cover mulch provides.

Then water, water, water. The first summer would be a difficult one for the tree or shrub to weather, unless it gets plenty of water. Watering is as essential as anything to success in shrub and tree transplanting.

Question:Jimmie, how often do I need to feed my landscaping? Thank you for your time.Bonnie L. in Prosper.

Answer: Hi Bonnie, a general answer to your questionwould be once a year. I assume you have native type landscaping , so you wouldneed to apply a high quality Tree and Shrub type fertilizer once a year to putback the nutrients in the soil your landscaping has thrived on the previousyear. Allot of people forget to do this, your plants continuously deplete thesoil of its nutrients each season until eventually the soil is so depleted youwill start to see the landscaping look tired and old.

It is allot like yougoing to your refrigerator and taking out food to eat out of it every day.Eventually you will need to go the store and get more food right? Plants are nodifferent! Until next time...Happy Gardening!!

2012-01-13T13:12:00.000-08:00

Holiday gift ideas for gardeners andlandscape lovers

The Holidays are fast approaching, and no doubt there aresome garden enthusiasts on your gift list. Here are some gift ideas for allthose Green Thumbs... and some for the “horticulturally challenged” as well.

Hoping to get some garden paraphernalia yourself? Maybe youshould circle or highlight some of my suggestions and strategically place thispage as a hint for your significant other!

Garden Hose Instead of the common-or-garden variety treatyour favorite horticulture fan to something special. The biggest problem withmost hoses is that they get in a tangle and are a real nuisance to stow awayafter use, even when using a reel with a crank handle.

Recently, several manufacturers introduced self-coilinghoses that look a bit like an oversized version of that curly cable attached tothe handset of your telephone. You simply attach one end to the faucet andstretch the hose out to the area you need to water. When you’re done, the hosestores itself back in a neat, compact coil. A good example is the aptly-namedAnaconda brand that includes a trigger sprayer and a watering wand for about$70.00. There is also smaller version, ideal for use in greenhouses and forwatering hang plant baskets.

Bird Feeder a new feeding station is always a welcome giftfor anyone who cares about wild birds. You can find a wide variety from basicmodels at local stores to more sophisticated examples available from mail-ordercatalogs or online.

To attract the very smallest birds, some feeders utilize afine mesh that can be filled with thistle and will thwart the beaks of largerbirds. Other models have ingenious devices to prevent squirrels devouring allthe bird seed and some come with suet cages attached to the sides to provide abirdie buffet. Expect to pay $20.00 to $75.00, depending on the style andquality of the feeder you select.

Briefly, if the person on your list is plagued bymosquitoes, a bat house provides living quarters for the critters that canconsume literally thousands of skeeters every night. And it’s the mosquitoesNOT the bats that suck your blood!

A butterfly house provides a sanctuary that will attractthese delightful creatures to the garden next summer, particularly when placednear plants that butterflies love, such as Buddleia davidii (also known as theButterfly Bush).

As always, you get what you pay for. Good quality bat housesand butterfly houses are in the $60.00 - $70.00 range, but certainly lookbetter and last longer than cheaper, flimsier versions.

Gardening Books It seems there is no longer a stigmaattached to the word “Dummy.” So if your loved one has no self-image issues,consider “Landscaping for Dummies” or “Gardening for Dummies.” Both areprobably best suited to novice gardeners or new homeowners looking for somebasic advice. Available at bookstores and those online book warehouses.

Odds and Ends... You can’t go wrong with a good pair ofgardening gloves! Both the weekend warrior and the seasoned landscaper needdecent gloves to protect their hands from the thorns and splinters.

How about a magazine subscription? There are many titles tochoose from. Among the best: Gardening How-To (with step-by-step instructions),Backyard Living (with plans for outdoor DIY projects) or Horticulture (aimed atthe serious garden enthusiast).

A garden caddy or cart is a nice gift for anyone who wantsto tote along tools, seeds, twine, gloves and everything else as they work ontheir landscape projects. There are several choices out there from the simpleto the more sophisticated.

QUESTION: "I have a 3yr oldJapanese Maple tree. Last year it was beautiful. This year only one of thebottom branches has leafed out. The rest of the branches seem to be dead asthey break off easily and have no buds or leaves on them. I've called everylandscaping place in town and no one seems to know what to do. All I want toknow is should I cut all the dead branches off and only have a 2ft tree with 1branch, and if I do will it grow new branches on top? Any help you give me willbe greatly appreciated. I have no clue what to do with it or what caused it todo that. It was about 4ft tall, but when I cut it off it will only be about 2fttall." - Monica H. in Celina
ANSWER: Hi Monica, it sounds as if youmight have experienced some die back due to a late or severe freeze at somepoint. You should go ahead and trim out the dead wood. You will not hurt thetree just by helping it. New growth should appear, and you should also go onand fertilize to push out the new growth. Anytime that you experience this withyour other plants you can follow the same procedure. Until next time….Happy Gardening!

2012-01-13T12:56:00.000-08:00

Fall weather is perfect for planting!

Crisp, cool mornings. Perfect "sleeping weather” at night. Plantcatalogs and landscaping "how to" books piling up on the coffeetable. It must be Fall!
Fall is my favorite time of the year for so many reasons, not just thewonderful weather. This is that special time of year when we prepare and plantnow, anticipating a wonderful spring and summer a few months in the future.
Let's take a look at four areas pertinent to the season: pruning, weedcontrol, budgeting and tree selection.
Pruning
The end of summer and the very beginning of fall is a good time for somegentle pruning. But note the emphasis on the word "gentle". Carefulshaping of trees and shrubs can be tackled right now, but this isn't the timeto do an "Edward Scissorhands" with those pruning shears!
In a useful online article originated by the Office of AgriculturalCommunications at Mississippi State University, Norman Winter, horticulturespecialist with the University's Extension Service, says, "Extensive[fall] pruning could generate too much succulent growth and an early freezecould then damage the plant. It is better to do major pruning just beforespring while the plants are still dormant."
Weed control
A friend of mine told me that he doesn't believe in getting rid of weeds."If I killed off all weeds and broadleaf," he said, "I wouldn'thave anything green at all to look at!" If you said "amen" thenmaybe you can skip this section, but for the rest of us, this is a good time toapply a systemic weed killer such as Roundup, the chemical name for which isglyphosate Actively-growing weeds absorb the glyphosate through their leavesand suck it down to the roots. It can take a couple of weeks to totally killthe weeds, as the absorption process is relatively slow. Avoid the temptationto cut back weeds before the process is complete or you'll prevent theglyphosate reaching the roots.
Products like Roundup work best when the ambient temperature is still fairlywarm, so don't wait too long to attack your weeds. Check the weather forecast,too, and avoid applying just before a rain shower which would wash it off.
If you prefer not to use chemicals, you can of course use a small gardeningfork or trowel and carefully remove all the offending weeds by hand.
Budget
It's a good idea to devote some thought to how much you can comfortablyinvest in your landscape this season. And yes, it is an investment that willpay off next spring and probably for years ahead. Do some comparison shoppingto find a good balance between price and quality. Your PC is the perfect toolas it allows you to go "Windows" shopping without leaving home!
I suggest you get a pad and start writing down plants and prices as you comeacross them during your online (or print catalog) search. Be sure to make anote of the web address, too, while you're surfing so that you can easilyreturn to that resource when you get around to ordering. As you build your wishlist, put asterisks by the "must haves" and gradually delete thoseplants that don't quite make the cut. If all your "must haves" fitwithin your budget, you know you can order without stretching the dollars toothinly!
Trees
As you make your fall selections, don't forget about trees! Truly, trees arean investment in so many ways. They can shade your home from summer sun andprotect it from icy winter winds. They reduce soil erosion and help to loweryour utility bills. When it comes time to move, carefully chosen trees create"curb appeal" for would-be buyers, and increase the value of yourproperty.
Summer blooming trees like crape myrtles and vitex respond well to adeadhead-type pruning. Removing spent flowers and seed heads often generatesnew growth and another round of blossoms. If you'd like some of my personalrecommendations for trees you might want to select, send me an e-mail with afew basic details about your location, etc, and I'll get back to you with someideas.
Other Fall Tips
Despite the warm temperatures, now is an ideal time to plant many flowers.It is not too late to enjoy one more round of summer annuals, such as marigoldsand zinnias, before planting cool season plants like pansies, violas, kale,cabbage and snapdragons for winter.
The fall is when perennials such as irises, daylilies, amaryllises, shastadaisies and purple coneflowers should be dug and divided. Winter said thegeneral rule of thumb is to divide plants in the season opposite their bloom.
Dividing serves at least two purposes: it will provide you with more plantsto enjoy and it will increase the plants' blooming ability.
Winter recommended sowing wildflower seeds, such as larkspur, purpleconeflower, black-eyed Susan and liatris, now for next year's bloom. They willgerminate this fall and bloom next spring.
Most of all enjoy this beautiful season!
Question: Jimmie, I recentlyinstalled a swimming pool in our backyard and am going to attempt to landscapeit myself (It’s my first landscaping project so don’t be surprised if I’mcalling you for help soon when I screw it up!) I want to include a few Palmtrees but I’m not sure what types are considered hearty here? Please help! AmyL. in Prosper
Answer: Hi Amy, I’m sure you willdo great job! If not we are always here to help you if need be. Probably a fewof the most hearty Palms for our climate zone are; Pindo Palm, Windmill Palm,Sabal Palm, and Mediterranean Palm depending on your personal preference of thedifferent types of foliage.
Until next time…Happy Gardening

2012-01-13T12:22:00.000-08:00

10 Ways to Make Gardening Easier

Making gardening easier doesn't mean there won't always be something to doin the garden. Although most gardeners enjoy the time they spend working intheir gardens, there comes a point when garden tasks can get ahead of you,making you can feel like you've bitten off more than you can chew. Thefollowing gardening and garden planning tips can put you a little ahead of thegame.
Some of these tips are common sense and some may seem like more work in theshort term, but they all really will make gardening easier for you. And thatway you'll have time to create even more gardens!

Feedthe Soil You've heard it a thousand times, but do you do it? Start withgreat soil and you'll wind up with great plants. Healthy plants get fewerdiseases, attract less insect pests and require less water. Plus you won't haveto remember to fertilizer every other week.

Start with a good analysis of your existing soil. You can have all theessential nutrients tested or just the pH.Many nurseries provide this service as well as your local CooperativeExtension Service. If your soil is deficient in any mineralsor nutrients, amend the soilaccording to recommendations. Then keep adding organic matter, like compost,regularly.
Slow release, organic fertilizers can helpsupplement deficient nutrients. But feeding plants with synthetic fertilizerscan actually destroy the beneficial organisms and organic matter within soiland only provide a short fix. It's like turning your garden into a drug addict.It will need regular doses of fertilizer and more and more to get the sameeffect.

GroupPlants by Their Needs I'm sure you've heard the saying "Right plantfor the right spot." That's the beginning of the equation. Of courseyou're going to want to put sun lovers in the sun and ground covers where theycan roam. But consider how efficient it would be if you put all your water hogstogether so you could just turn on the sprinklers or drag the hose to one area andbe done. The same goes for plants that require a lot of deadheadingor vegetables that need to be harvested daily or hourly, like zucchini. You canstill mix in different bloom times and variations in color, form and texture.It's just the heavy maintenance chores that should be consolidated.

ChooseLower Maintenance PerennialsThere will always be prim Dona plants you have to have (although probably lessand less of them as you get older), but make the backbone of your gardenperennial flowers that can take care of themselves. Plants like Astilbesand Sedums that look good all season and don't need deadheading, pinching orstaking. Here are even more low maintenanceperennials.

RaisedBeds & Containers It's much easier to control your garden if it hasdefinite boundaries. Containersprovide the ultimate in control. You control the soil, water, exposure and evenlimit the growth of the plants in the container. Raised beds separate thegarden beds from their surroundings. Ideally, lift the beds up by 6 inches ormore. You'll have the benefits of controlling your borders and you'll be savingyour back from some bending.

InstallDrip Irrigation This is one of those suggestions that sound like it's goingto cost a fortune and require a professional to install - and it can. But itdoesn't have to. They've reduced drip irrigation to a tinker toy level. Believeme, if I can grasp it, so can you. There is an initial cost, although no wherenear what you might fear, and you will need to do some measuring. But unlessyou rely solely on rain to water your gardens, you will actually save money inthe long run. Drip irrigation is far more efficient than any other type ofwatering. Plus it puts all the water right where your plants need it. Add aninexpensive timer and think of all the time you've saved yourself.

Mulch Again, this is common sense and somethingyou've been told a thousand times. Yet many gardeners only view mulch asdecoration. Mulch does make a garden look more attractive, but it also keepsthe soil and plant roots cool, retains moisture so you can water less often,prevents weed seeds from seeing the light of day and sprouting and feeds thesoil. Right there you've cut down on watering, weeding and fertilizing time.

Time ReleasedFertilizer and Water Polymers Container gardens are the exception to theFeed the Soil rule above. It's not practical to use compost or garden soil incontainers and so some supplemental feeding is necessary to keep the plantsgoing. Containers also dry out more quickly than garden bed soil, especially ifthe bed is mulched. So start your container gardening season by adding someslow release fertilizer pellets and some polymer crystals that grab hold andslowly release water to the plant roots. Add both at planting time. Bothproducts are widely available at garden centers.

Ergonomic ToolsA lot of gardening is repetitive motion and can be very stressful on thejoints, especially the wrists and back. Thankfully garden tool companies havebeen coming out with more and better tools that work with the body, taking someof the bending and squeezing out of garden work. Look around for ratchetpruners, bent rakes, cushioned handles and trowels that don't require you tobend your wrist.

Wheels Watch a child with a new wagon. They can't find enough thingsto put in it or enough places to go. Now think about how long you've put offmoving that cement bird bath or how many plants are still sitting in pots onyour driveway because you didn't want to make one more trip. This is why maninvented the wheel. Get yourself at least one good garden cart orwheelbarrow and don't go out into the garden without it. Youcan tote your tools, move plants, harvest, toss weeds right into it and glidedown to the compost heap. No matter how small your plot is, you'll get moredone with wheels. If you have a very large plot, consider wheels with a motor.

ChildLabor Show your children and grandkids early in life how much fun and howexciting gardening is. They may never enjoy deadheading the petunias, I know Idon't, but planting, harvesting, learning what's a weed, collecting insects -these are all activities thatwill get them out into the garden. All right, maybe it won'tlessen the work load, but good companionship can make it seem so.

Sorry,didn’t have time to get to all your questions, will try to e-mail most of youback personally. Until next time…Happy Gardening!!

2012-01-13T11:54:00.000-08:00

10 Bad Things We Do to Our Trees

"Loving a Tree to Death"

Staking and mulching newly planted trees seems to come naturally to even thebeginning urban tree planter. Hey, both practices can be beneficial when doneproperly - but they also can be destructive when overdone or not done properly.
Staking and guying can make a tree grow taller, will anchor a tree in heavywinds and can protect trees from mechanical damage. Still, you must rememberthat some tree species need no staking at all and most trees need only minimalsupport for a short time. Staking can cause abnormal trunk growth, bark damage,girdling and cause a tree to become top heavy.
Mulching is a great practice but can also be done improperly. Never applytoo much mulch around a tree. Mulch around the base of a tree that is over5" deep can be too much to the point of effecting root and bark function.Avoid mulching right next to the base of the tree trunk.

"Girdles Are Not For Trees"

Some think this is the best way to protect trees from thelawnmower or weed eater. However they don’t realize there tree will besuffering a slow death form this “protection”. Most trees actually needprotection from the tree owner.

It is just not a good practice to cover a tree's trunk base with plastic ormetal for protection from mechanical yard tools - especially on a permanentbasis. Instead, think about using good mulch that will keep the tree's baseweed free and worry free. In combination with a small amount of annualherbicide, the mulch you apply will conserve moisture as well as prevent weedcompetition.

"Avoid the Power Line Syndrome"

Power lines and trees just don't mix. You can invest in asapling and years of growth only to see the tree topped by an electric utilitycrew when the limbs touch their electric wires. You will get no sympathy fromyour local power company and can expect a fight when you ask them to spare yourtree.

Utility right-of-ways are a tempting place to plant trees. They are usuallyopen and clear. Please resist that temptation. You can get by only if you planta small tree that has a projected lifetime height that is less than the heightof the power wires.

"The Classic Tree Abuser"

Atree's health often takes a back seat when problems and opportunities demandmost of our time. I am as guilty as anyone and regret the times I've let thingsslide. But being a tree owner comes with a bit of responsibility which a few ofus tend to put off to the point where the tree suffers permanent harm.

Itis just as important to nurse a tree back to health as it is to plant andprepare it for a healthy future. Tree injury and improper pruning can lead tothe death of a tree. Regular maintenance and proper attention is necessary whena tree sustains injury.

5. "Forcing Lethal Competition"

In many cases trees can not compete with an aggressive plant that cancompletely control all nutrients and light. Many plants can take advantage oftheir spreading habit (many are vines) and have the ability to overwhelm themost vigorous tree. You can plant spreading shrubs and vines but keep them awayfrom your trees.
6. "Suffering in the Dark"
Some trees, depending on the species, can suffer from too much shade. Simplyput, many conifers and hardwood trees have to be in full sunlight most of theday to survive. These trees are what foresters and botanists call "shadeintolerant". Trees that can take shade are shade tolerant.
7. "The Incompatible Neighbor"

Everytree has its own unique growth potential. How tall and wide a tree grows is notonly determined by its health and the condition of the site, but the final sizeof a tree will also be determined by its genetic growth potential. Most goodtree guides will give you height and spread information. You need to refer tothat every time you plan to plant.

8. "Tree Roots Need More Respect"

A tree's root system is the most vital organ on a tree. Whenroots fail to work properly the tree will eventually decline and die. A fewcommon mistakes made by tree owners is to build or pave over roots, excavate onand around the tree trunk, park or store equipment and/or toxic material overthe root zone.

9. "A Battle Between Tree and Property"

Poor tree placement and the lack of a landscape plan canharm both your tree and the property it battles to live with. Always avoidplanting trees that will outgrow the space provided. Damage to buildingfoundations, water and utility lines and walkways are the usual cause ofdamage. In most cases, the tree has to be removed.

10. "Flag Poles and Fence Posts"

Trees can easily become convenient fence posts, light polesand ornament stands. Don't be tempted into using a standing tree for purposesof utility and decoration by attaching them with permanent invasive anchors.

Question: Jimmie,I planted 12 different roses in my backyard last fall. I have yet to see anyblooms. What am I doing wrong? Thanks for your time. Julie P. in Prosper

Answer: Hi Julie,Here are some of the reasons that roses don't bloom.

The rose plant is not getting enough sun. Roses need at least 6 hours of direct sun a day to perform well.
The rose needs more water. Roses like at least an inch of water per week during the growing season.
The plant has been given too much fertilizer, especially Nitrogen. Too much fertilizer can either damage the plant or cause it to grow extra leaves and stems at the expense of blooms.
The rose is a new plant. Don't expect too much from a plant during its first year.
Rose is a once blooming variety. This means it will bloom only once a year in the late spring or early summer.
Soil pH is too low or too high. If the pH is not in the range of 6.0 to 6.8 (ideally 6.5) then nutrient uptake will be reduced, and the plant won't be getting the food it needs to produce flowers.
Not enough foliage. If the bush doesn't have adequate foliage, it can't produce the food it needs to make new flowers. Inadequate foliage may result from disease or too little fertilizer. Hopefully one of these you will be able to associate with your roses. Until next time…Happy Gardening!!!

OVERSEEDING OVERVIEW

2011-09-29T20:31:00.000-07:00

Annual VS. Perennial Rye

If you plan to overseed your lawn this fall, knowing the difference between annual and perennial ryegrass-and how each performs-will help you make the best choice for your situation.

Perennial ryegrass has a deep-green color and slower growth habit. Even though it has the word “perennial” in its name, in full sun, this cool-season grass will fade and your permanent turf will flourish when temperatures warm and consistently reach the 90s. In the shade, however, it may stay cool enough for perennial rye to persist into the summer. Use of a specific variety is not that critical. Most are packaged blends of 2 to 3 varieties best-adapted to a particular region.

Annual ryegrass is less expensive than perennial rye. However, it takes on a pale yellow-green color when soil temperatures cool and it must be cut more often than perennial ryegrass. The best use for annual ryegrass is to cover large areas and for erosion control. It may also be used as a temporary lawn while waiting to install permanent bermudagrass or St. Augustinegrass once temperatures warm. Commercial properties and landscaping contractors prefer to use perennial rye for overseeding. It is imperative that a pre-emergent not be used prior to seeding either type of ryegrass, as this will inhibit the development of the seed.

The next step is to drop the mower setting a couple of notches and cut the lawn. In bermudagrass, especially, this exposes mostly stems and causes the lawn to look brown. This is more challenging to accomplish in St. Augustinegrass because of its wide leaf blades, but this process is essential as it allows the ryegrass seed to contact the soil, which is critical for germination.

Use approximately 8 to 10 pounds of ryegrass seed for every 1000 square feet of lawn area, being careful not to get the seed in your flower beds. Two to three passes with a drop spreader open to its widest setting will create a buffer zone. Then use a broadcast spreader to finish the seeding.

After seeding, apply a 20-5-10 or a 15-5-10 fertilizer with 50 percent of its nitrogen in a slow-release form at half-strength. Once the seed has sprouted, maintain the deep green color throughout the growing season by fertilizing at the regular rate in late November and early February (one pound of actual nitrogen per 1000 square feet.)

Once the seed and fertilizer have been applied, keeping the seed moist so germination can occur is your next objective. Water once or twice a day, 5 to 10 minutes per area, but do not let the water puddle. In three to five days, in warm weather, new seedlings will start emerging. When the new seedlings are about an inch or so tall, decrease the watering to every other day, but increase the amount of time for each area. Gradually cut back your number of days to once a week, applying 1 inch of water if no rainfall has occurred. November through February, check the soil’s moisture, and if the top inch of the soil is dry to the touch, irrigate.

A good mowing height for ryegrass is 2 to 3 inches. It is best to mow again before it reaches a height of 3 to 4 inches. This may only mean cutting the grass every two to three weeks when the weather is cool, more often however in the spring. Timely mowing will have a positive effect on health, vigor and weed suppression.

In an overseeded lawn, weeds usually are not a major concern. Cool-season broadleaf weeds will be the main culprit and are usually controlled with an herbicide containing 2,4-d. Apply the weed control following the label directions, but only after the lawn has been mowed at least three times. Use a dedicated spot sprayer on a sunny when temperatures are between 55 and 85 degrees and winds are light. Spring pre-emergents for Bermuda and St. Augustinegrass will still be applied at their normal times of March 1^st and June 1^st.

Planting ryegrass in the fall really brightens the landscape and gives tired lawns a new refreshed look. It is especially effective for homes on the market for sale during the winter-the lush lawn makes them look appealing and well-cared for.

Five Landscaping Tools You Should Always Own (okay, really there are 8)

2011-09-29T20:24:00.000-07:00

In order to keep your beautifully landscaped yard in tip-top condition, there are several must have tools to maintain your yards beauty. Not only will this make maintenance easier, it also helps to keep from damaging your plants that you so carefully picked and added to your landscaping.

The first tool you need is a small tiller. This tool is good for breaking up the ground for proper water penetration, weed control and aeration. It is extremely important that the ground be penetrable for watering, for fertilization and for oxygen. This tool is also a good idea if you plan on planting annuals, so you can prepare the soil in the spring planting season.

The second tool that you need is a small trowel. This tool can be used to dig the holes to plant your annuals, or for digging up weeds in the hard to reach areas with bigger tools. If you would need to transplant some of you plants, this the tool to use so you can carefully dig up your smaller plants with as little root and stalk damage as possible.

The third tool that you need if you have shrubs and bushes would be a pruning tool. You will have to trim stems and branches to keep your plants in nice looking form and to trim off dying or dead branches. Some plants can also have a woody or very fibrous inner core, so it is more beneficial to use a pruning tool to keep as little damage possible to your plants.

The fourth tool that you need is a weeding tool. This type of tool can save you a lot of time in the weeding department. There are a number of different weeding tools to choose from. From, hand held tine rakes to motorized tillers, you will need to select the type of weeding tools you will need based on the size of the garden and landscaping area.

The fifth tool that you need is a spade, also often called a garden shovel. This tool would be beneficial for digging up larger areas of ground, working the soil and prying and loosening the soil. It can be used for edging a garden bed or for compacting soil.

A sixth tool that you could use is a sprayer. Sprayers come in all shapes and sizes. They are used to water hard to reach areas. They are used to spray insecticides and they are used to fertilize plants and areas of your landscape. Depending on the area you need to work with will also depend on the size and capacity of the sprayer tool you use. To small of a sprayer and you will be constantly refilling. Too large a sprayer and you may not be able to get it into delicate areas without damaging plants and other landscaping features.

A seventh tool to have is a three-prong cultivator. This tool is great for breaking up the ground and keeping the soil loose. A cultivating tool can also be used to help control weeds in the more open areas although you need to be careful with such tool so you do not damage the extended roots of trees and plants in your garden.

An eighth tool that is handy is a spring brace rake. The rakes will help you keep your landscaping areas free of debris and dead leaves. They can also be used to even out the ground areas around plants for a not uniform appeal visually.

By no means are these listed tools the only tools that will make your gardening experience easier and much more enjoyable. They are the most common and recommended tools you should have in your gardening and landscaping tool set. If you are on a budget these tools are also very cost effective for the most part. And most of these tools are very simple to use. With a little patience and time you can have your landscaping looking as if a professional had been at work.

Understanding the "NPK" in your fertilizer

2011-09-29T19:42:00.000-07:00

NPK stands for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, the three nutrients that compose complete fertilizers. You'll encounter NPK when reading the contents printed on bags of fertilizer. The description of the fertilizer may not expressly say "NPK" (it may simply be implied), but you will at least see a series of three numbers, which correspond, respectively, to the nitrogen content, phosphorus content and potassium content of that fertilizer.

Why is it important to know what NPK means? It's important because chemical fertilizers should not be used indiscriminately. Not all plants have the same nutrient requirements, and you can sometimes do more harm than good when applying chemical fertilizers haphazardly. For example, applying a fertilizer high in nitrogen (indicated by the fact that the first number on the package is high) will cause certain plants to put all their energy into producing foliage, at the expense of flowers.

If you don't know that much about the nutritional needs of your plant (but still feel the need to feed it at the present time), your best bet is probably to:

· Use compost instead of a chemical fertilizer

· And/or have your soil tested

· And/or stick with a chemical fertilizer labeled as being specifically for that particular type of plant

NPK: The Breakdown

In conclusion, let's take a brief look at the constituents of NPK:

1. Nitrogen

2. Phosphorus

3. Potassium

Nitrogen promotes leaf development. "Nitrogen" is a major part of chlorophyll and the green color of plants." As mentioned above, there can be such a thing as "too much nitrogen"; at the opposite end of the spectrum, gardeners sometimes encounter the problem of nitrogen depletion.

Meanwhile, phosphorus plays a key role in the growth of roots, blooming and fruiting. Potassium also plays a part in root growth, as well as in stem development.

You want to make sure your plants are getting the nutrition they need to do you proud, but there are so many choices when it comes to selecting fertilizer. How do you know what is really in the bag? There are certain rules that all fertilizer makers must follow when they label their products and understanding these rules can make comparing fertilizers much easier.

Here's How:

1. Major Ingredients: Most commercial fertilizers have 3 numbers on the front label, separated by dashes. For example: 5-10-5. This is the fertilizer analysis or percentage by weight of the 3 major nutrients plants need: nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, in that order. These are abbreviated as N-P-K.

So if you purchased a 10 pound bag of fertilizer labeled 5-10-5, it would contain 5% nitrogen, 10% phosphorus and 5% potassium. The remaining 80% could be comprised of other nutrients and filler.

2. 1st Number = Nitrogen: The first number gives the concentration of nitrogen in the product. Nitrogen encourages foliage growth, among other benefits. A 5-10-5 fertilizer would contain 5% nitrogen by weight. So for every pound of fertilizer applied there is really only .05 pounds of nitrogen. (The 10 pound bag mentioned above would contain .5 lb. nitrogen.)

3. 2nd Number = Phosphorous: The middle number refers to the concentration of phosphorous. Phosphorous contributes to many fundamental plant processes such as rooting and setting flower buds. A 5-10-5 fertilizer would contain 10% phosphorous by weight or .1 pounds of phosphorous. (The 10 pound bag mentioned above would contain 1 lb. of phosphorus.)

4. 3rd Number = Potassium: The final number states the concentration of potassium. Potassium contributes to the overall health and vigor of plants. Again, a 5-10-5 fertilizer would contain 5% potassium by weight or .05 pounds of potassium. (The 10 pound bag mentioned above would contain .5 lb. potassium.)

5. Complete Fertilizers: Fertilizers that contain all three major nutrients are considered complete fertilizers. There are specialized fertilizers which are called incomplete because they lack one or more major nutrients such as a fertilizer labeled 0-20-20.

6. Fertilizer Ratio (An easier comparison): An easier way to compare the numbers is to break them down to the fertilizer ratio or the amounts of the 3 major nutrients in relation to each other. A 5-10-5 fertilizer has a ratio of 1-2-1. This becomes important when looking for a fertilizer for a specific need. A 1-2-1 ratio is often recommended for vegetables, which need plenty of phosphorous to set fruit. 1-2-1 could be 5-10-5, 10-20-10 or any similar extrapolation.

7. Other Ingredients: Any additional ingredients will be listed on the side label. This may include other nutrients like calcium, magnesium, iron, micronutrients and even the percentage of organic matter.

8. Organic fertilizers: Organic fertilizers must specify which nutrient(s) is organic and it must be identified as either synthetic and/or natural, by percentage. For example: 20% of Nitrogen organic (6% synthetic, 14% organic). When a fertilizer is labeled "organic", it simply means it contain carbon atoms. It can be naturally produced from plant or animal tissue or synthetically manufactured. Until next time...Happy Gardening!!

Jimmie

Top 10 Mistakes Made By Do-It-Yourselfers

2011-08-24T20:32:00.000-07:00

Success in home landscape design is certainly attainable for do-it-yourselfers, but there are some pitfalls that should be avoided if maximum satisfaction is to be achieved. Thus, the need for this list of 10 mistakes to avoid in home landscape design. The mistakes covered range from miscalculations that have practical ramifications to more subtle errors that negatively impact your enjoyment of your home landscape design.

1) Piecemeal Planting: Failure to Have a Plan

Many home landscape designs evolve helter-skelter. A plant is planted somewhere in the yard simply because there is room for it there at the time. Ideally, it's best to start from scratch, draw a plan for the whole yard, and stick to it. Short of that, try at least to sketch a rough plan for one large area of your yard, and put all your energy into implementing that plan this year.

2) Having a Lawn Just Because "Everyone Else Does It"

Many homeowners make the mistake of assuming that having a grassy area in the yard, designated as "the lawn," is somehow an obligatory part of home landscape design. But historically speaking, the lawn as we know it is a relatively recent introduction to landscaping. For those not attracted to that rather monotonous "green carpet" look or who dislike having to mow grass every week, it's important to know that other acceptable options exist, especially for small spaces. Whose yard is it, anyhow?

3) Insufficient Fall Color in Your Home Landscape Design

Spring and summer receive most of our attention when it comes to planting. Unfortunately, it's easy to forget to plant for fall. Yet the fall season holds enormous promise for those landscaping enthusiasts willing to plan for it. Don't allow your home landscape design to miss out on the colors offered by autumn's bounty!

4) Lack of Winter Interest in Your Home Landscape Design

If the fall season is often neglected in home landscape design, matters stand twice as bad with the winter season. Yet it is precisely in wintertime that we most need a yard decor that will bring us cheer.

5) Failure to Irrigate

Many of us face a dilemma: we enjoy having plants in our yards, but we also like to travel during the summer. So how do the plants get watered while we're gone? Sometimes a friend or relative can come to the rescue, but why chance it? There's a lot tied up in your home landscape design, both in terms of money and sentimental value. But don't ditch your travel plans! Just install an automatic irrigation system in your home landscape design.

6) Planting on a Hillside that is Subject to Erosion

Do you have a steep slope in your yard? Is it tough to retain your topsoil there during a heavy rain? Have you tried growing your favorite plants there to no avail? The problem is you failed to fix your erosion problem prior to planting. Build a retaining wall first, and then do your planting afterwards.

7) Failure to Work with What You Have

Do you have a rocky yard? A yard with a lot of shade? Or perhaps your yard's problem is a punishing summertime heat that scorches all in its path? Sometimes you can successfully fight the terrain you inherit in your yard, as in the case of building retaining walls for slopes to fight erosion. Other times, instead of fighting it, it's better to go with the flow and work with what you have. The key is to know what you're up against and what options you have.

8) Failure to Incorporate Insect-Resistant Plants in Your Home Landscape Design

You may think you've arrived at the ideal home landscape design. You meticulously drew up a plan and stuck to it. The soil is fertile, you've installed automatic irrigation, you've followed directions faithfully in planting your specimens, and you've applied a generous layer of mulch around them. But you come out of the house one day -- and find your plants in shreds! What happened? You forgot one thing: insects can make a snack of your plants quicker than you can say, "Grasshopper goes to market."

9) You Never Get Anything Done in the Yard Because Tools Are Never Handy

The surest way to get little done in the yard is to realize you need a tool -- only to find that you can't find it! If you don't have enough storage space, chances are your tools will all be jammed into one small area (perhaps a corner of the garage), making it tough to keep the area accessible and the tools organized. What you need is a storage shed. The longer you put off getting adequate storage, the longer you'll be disorganized -- and the further you'll fall behind in your yard work.

10) Forgetting Functionality in Home Landscape Design

When one thinks about home landscape design, it is aesthetic considerations that immediately come to mind. Functionality, however, takes precedence over aesthetics. There is no reason you shouldn't be able to have both; but when push comes to shove, one needs to be more concerned that a home landscape design is safe, convenient and usable.

Three ways trees make your life easier, more comfortable

2011-08-04T22:45:00.000-07:00

Trees. Do you plant them on your property so you can enjoy their growing beauty over many years while adding to the value of your home in the future real estate market? Nothing wrong with that! But in addition to aesthetics, trees provide three very practical benefits that add to your comfort and well-being... and even save you some of your hard-earned money.

Trees create a sound barrier; living close to persistent noise can make you sick. In addition to the possibility of hearing loss, noise has been shown to cause stress, tension and anxiety. If your home is close to a noise source, such as a highway or an industrial complex, planting a “noise buffer” consisting of trees and shrubs can reduce noise by 5 to 10 decibels, effectively reducing the sound by up to 50% to the human ear.

According to an excellent Web site hosted by Agroforestry, the best results are obtained when the noise buffer is planted as close as possible to the source of the noise (rather than close to the area you wish to protect).

The Agroforestry site also recommends planting the trees and shrubs as close together as the species will allow. Additionally, choose plants with dense foliage, preferably foliage that is growing all the way to the ground. As you might guess, evergreen trees provide better year-round noise reduction.

If noise is giving you a migraine, I recommend a visit to http://www.agroforestry.net/overstory/overstory60.html where you can find detailed planting solutions to various noise pollution problems.

Trees provide wind protection if you are troubled by blowing dust and debris around your home, thoughtfully planted trees can reduce the problem. But reducing the effect of wind on your home can also keep some dollars in your pocket.

Research conducted on the Great Plains has shown that up to 25 percent energy savings for heating is possible from windbreaks. An evergreen, properly placed, can divert cold winds away from the home. Locate the windbreak upwind from the home, according to advice from the Colorado State University Co-operative extension.

To reduce wind velocity, the recommended distance from your house is between and three times tree height (at maturity) but you’ll still reap wind-reducing benefits from trees planted at a distance of up to six tree heights.

Trees provide shade before you say “Duh,” I’m not just referring to the shade you enjoy while sipping lemonade in your hammock. Your home benefits from being shaded from the heat of the sun, and trees are a natural sunshade.

Carefully positioned trees can save up to 25% of a household's energy consumption for heating and cooling, according to computer models created by the U.S. Department of Energy. They estimate that the proper placement of only three trees would save an average household between $100 and $250 in energy costs annually.

While you’re at it, create some shade for that air-conditioning unit that’s chugging away under the broiling summer sun.

In a nutshell, trees can reduce the headache-inducing effects of noise, the nuisance of wind and the size of your utility bills.

Which specific trees and shrubs should you plant to achieve one or more of these results? In many cases, this will depend on your geographic location and any unique contributing factors that affect your landscape. If you’re unsure about what would work best for your particular situation, send some basic details in an e-mail to jimmie@absolutelybushed.com and I’ll do my best to reply with some suggestions.

Landscaping Accent Fountains

2011-08-04T22:04:00.000-07:00

Garden fountains add detail and a feeling of warmth to your landscaping. They make the area look elegant, yet inviting to explore. Garden fountains are generally made out of cast stone. They come in many sizes to accommodate any landscaping area you have available. There are several types of garden fountains to choose from. If you have limited space, consider a wall fountain.

Garden fountains are designed to add breathtaking brilliance to your garden area. You will find garden fountains in an array of sizes and designs, all to add beauty to your garden area. Fountains can be found with one, two, and three tiers. Generally, the bottom tier is the largest and they get smaller as you go up the fountain. Many garden fountains feature a statue of a child or other design at the top for added appeal. Buddha heads and other religious designs are also very popular.

The size and shape of garden fountain you will choose depends on the area you have available and the décor of the other landscaping you have in the area. While the classic design of a garden fountain made out of cast stone is still very popular, many individuals are starting to use more unique garden fountain options.

The Barcelona garden fountain is square shaped; with the top part looking like well-designed candles. This is a very classy looking fountain that is definitely original. The Bilbao fountain is also square shaped with smaller squares on top just like the traditional round tier garden fountain.

For an even more distinct garden fountain, consider the bronze mirror fountain. This is a tall piece of bronze in a wooden frame. The base of the fountain has colorful rocks. The water flows over the bronze piece. This is a gorgeous garden fountain with the sun reflecting off of it or the moonlight gently illuminating it. A very similar garden fountain is the clear garden fall. It is designed the same as the bronze mirror fountain, but the middle piece is clear. Sometimes you can find the clear glass with a pretty picture etched into it for a very appealing look.

The sky is the limit when it comes to the garden fountains available. Choose from a favorite animal or religious fountain. Women and children are also great garden fountain ideas and are probably the most popular. To add appeal to your garden fountain, select one that has a very detailed layout regardless of what it characterizes.

It is very easy to install your own garden fountain. You can purchase a complete set at any home improvement retail store or online. For those individuals who are creative and willing to tackle a challenge, you can build your own garden fountain rather than buying one that has been pre-fabricated.

You will want to install your garden fountain on a flat surface that is free of tree roots. This may require some leveling prior to set up. Place the pre-fabricated fountain in the exact spot you want it to be. Then trace around it. This will help you dig the hole properly for a good fit. Dig about two inches deeper than you need, then fill with two inches of sand base. Then simply slide the garden fountain into place.

You will need to add water to the garden fountain. They instructions for each particular fountain will provide you with the information on how to operate the pump as well as how much water to add. If you plan to add fish to your garden fountain, you will want to use proper chemicals to keep it clean that won’t harm the fish.

Garden fountains add the look of elegance and class to any garden. There are so many styles and designs to choose from that it will not be easy to decide which one to add to your garden. Take your time to make sure you choose one that is going to fit the other landscaping items you have laid out in your garden area. You also want one that is a good fit in size for the opening you have. Smaller fountains can help make your garden look bigger as well as divide the area into sections. It is a good idea to get a catalog of various garden fountains or to search the internet to help you make an informed decision about the garden fountain to choose

While garden fountains look elegant, you will be very surprised at how reasonably priced they are. You can get a magnificent looking garden fountain with all the necessities for less than $200. The higher end fountains are also available to you for larger areas or estate landscapes. We have installed many of these over the years for clients. They can make a grand statement at your residence. I have often seen these fountains actually help sell a residence by making it part of the homes appeal. We have also moved these types of fountains for clients to their new residence as they became sentimentally attached to them over the years.

Whatever fountain suits your needs best it will be an addition to your homes landscaping you will not regret! Until next time...Happy Gardening!!

Jimmie

Tips For Growing Orchids

2011-07-05T20:52:00.000-07:00

The best tips anyone can provide when it comes to growing orchids is to choose wisely the orchids you will be growing according environment they will live in once you purchase them. These beautiful flowers are not quite as delicate as you may have been led to believe. They do however have very specific environments in which they will flourish and thrive. Despite their seeming delicateness, orchids are one of the most versatile flowers you might come across.

Orchids are definitely not plants that you simply leave to the elements while many orchids do manage in nature without human intervention. The truth of the matter is that most orchids require a significant amount of care and tending. However, those who are truly passionate about their orchids are more than willing to take all the time they need in order to learn the best possible way in which to care for these beautiful blooms.

While there are a few things that are common to most orchid varieties, there is no one size fits all hard and fast rule for properly growing orchids. These plants are unique and exotic and each one will require a little something different when it comes to the best possible growing environment and conditions. Do a little research before you select the type of Orchid and choose one that will best suit your living conditions and the level of care you feel you can properly commit to your orchids.

Orchids like humidity and thrive in these sorts of conditions. Hot houses are a great place for orchids to thrive. One great way to keep them humid is by placing them on a saucer of pebbles that are kept moist as much of the time as possible. Contrary to popular opinion it is actually not a good idea to mist the orchid petals, as this will diminish the life of the bloom.

Peat moss, fir bark, volcanic rock, osmunda fiber, and charcoal are great for growing orchids but should be changed often for maximum effectiveness as a growing media. Orchid blooms are simply stunning and can last for quite some time if maintained properly. It is important when cutting the orchids once the bloom has fallen off that you cut at bottom of the leaves rather than the elbows. This keeps the blooms big and lovely.

Another good tip to keep in mind when growing orchids is that in addition to warmth and moisture, orchids love sunlight whenever they can get it. Different varieties of orchid prefer different types of sunlight and you should do a little research about the variety you choose in order to provide the best possible living and growing conditions for your floral investment. These plants are after all a significant investment not only in money but also in time and care.

The best tip when it comes to growing orchids is to take the time to learn about the specific variety you are planning to grow. There are more than 30,000 species of orchids not including all the hybrids that are available to you. Each species will have a few idiosyncrasies of its very own and you will need to learn the likes and dislikes of your chosen variety and cater to its every whim for some time in order to receive the maximum performance and beauty from your plant. When done correctly, it is well worth the time and effort to achieve great results!

What should you know about watering plants in containers?

2011-06-27T04:06:00.000-07:00

Watering plants in containers doesn't sound like rocket science, but can make all the difference to the health of your plant. Here are 7 tips for watering plants in containers.

Water Deeply - The most important thing when watering plants is to give them a good, long drink - optimally, until water runs out the hole in the bottom of your container. You do this because, depending on the size of your pot, many of the plant's roots will be down towards the bottom and you want them to be able to get water too. It will also encourage roots to grow down toward the bottom of the pot, which is better for plants.

Check Moisture Level - Before watering plants, check to see if your plant really needs it - the top of the soil can look dry, even though just below the soil line it is still moist. Stick your finger into the soil all the way to the second knuckle. If it feels dry at your fingertip, your plants need water.

Know Your Plants - Most plants prefer to live in moist soil, not wet, just damp. Fortunately with modern potting mixes, which are designed for good drainage, this is not impossible. However, different plants have very different moisture needs. Some plants like to be dry, some like to be a bit dry between waterings and then there are those delicate plants that, if they get even a little dry, will swoon and drop all their buds and leaves. However, as a rule of thumb, flowering annuals don't like to get too dry. Succulents like to be a bit dry and vegetables - particularly those that are juicy (tomatoes, cucumbers, melons) - like to be kept moist and need a huge amount of water. Some herbs (basil, rosemary, thyme, dill, oregano, cilantro) like to dry a little between watering and the flavor will be stronger if they do. Some herbs like (parsley, sage, chives) like more moisture. One way to keep track of your plants' watering preferences always nearby is to keep the plant tag, either under the pot or buried in the soil.

Water in the Morning - According to Horticulture Magazine, plants' roots are more receptive to watering in the morning and the evening and less so in the midday sun. However, it's not a good idea (if you can prevent it) to water in the evening, because when you let water sit on the leaves overnight, your plant is more likely to contract some plant diseases, like mildew. That said, if you get home from work and your plants are dry, even if it's in the evening, give them a good long drink.

Water the Soil, Not the Leaves - It turns out that some plants - ones with hairy leaves - are susceptible to sunburn if you get water on their leaves in the sun. Water droplets can act like mini-magnifying glasses and burn your plant. Even if your plant's leaves are smooth, it is still a good idea to water the soil and not the leaves, if you can. Wet leaves can lead to an increased chance of fungus, mildew and other diseases.

Don't Rely on the Rain - Even if you think that a rain shower has watered your plants, check anyhow. Sometimes a plant's foliage and flowers can act like an umbrella and actually keep water from getting to your soil - shedding the moisture right out of the container.

Don't Let Soil Dry Out Completely - Most potting mixes become tough and won't absorb water efficiently, if you let them completely dry out. Your potting mix can also pull away from the sides of your containers when it gets too dry, so while you may think you are giving your plant a good drink of water, the water may be just flowing over the soil, going down the sides of the pot and out the bottom, leaving your plant gasping for a drink. If you do let your soil dry out, you have a couple of options. If your pot is relatively small, you can take the whole thing and submerge it in a larger container of water, taking it out when it has stopped bubbling. For a large pot or one that is difficult to move, poke holes in the soil with a pencil or skewer, and then give it a good drink, making sure the water is penetrating the soil and not just flowing down the sides.

Don't Assume Once is Enough - Depending on the size of your pots, and the kind of soil you use, don't be surprised if you end up having to water your container gardens more than once a day. Heat, wind and dry air can quickly parch your plants. Terra cotta pots, hanging baskets made from coir and metal pots all can dry our ridiculously fast on a hot, windy summer day. Over the season, you will probably get to know which containers need to be checked more than once a day, but when they are first planted, it's a good idea to check your containers in the morning and again in the afternoon. Until next time...Happy Gardening!!

THE PERFECT PALETTE

2011-06-06T22:17:00.001-07:00

Pure, peaceful and pleasing to the eye, the all white garden is a study in perfection.

The color white evokes a vision of purity, peace, tranquility and hope. It’s only natural that a gardener might decide to devote garden space to this color alone.

However, most articles on this subject features gardens in Great Britain or the Northeast.

And while these garden designers may have a head start on us, Texans can be certain that there is no shortage of white plants for our landscapes.

Purity

Even though you will want to exclude all other colors, even creamy white flowers should be kept to a minimum. The color green obviously must be part of the equation. And so, of course, plants with variegated foliage can be part of the planting. But watch out for berries. You might plant pyracantha for its beautiful white spring flowers; by fall you will be clipping off red berries to protect the honor of your pristine garden.

To guard against mishaps, purchase plants after they have begun to flower or develop leaves. Those white caladium tubers just might contain a few stray red leaved plants, or a

Flat of white dianthus may harbor a few pinks. It’s hard to turn heads when you announce that you have an “almost white” garden. You can always rogue out plants that are not white, but that may leave holes in the landscape that are hard to fill.

Privacy

Most gardeners will prefer to locate the white garden in a private area of the landscape to ensure a level of peace and quiet. A comfortable bench furthers the tranquil atmosphere, and an informal design for a path and planting beds aids in the relaxed feeling. Many white flowers are fragrant; so anticipate an air of perfume to punctuate the experience.

Planting

Now for the fun part, what to plant? Trees always add stature and height to a garden. They may, in fact, define the limits of the garden. Look for two-winged silverbell, dogwood trees, white flowering crape myrtles, Chinese fringe tree, Mexican plum, and southern blackhaw viburnum.

Shrubs make up the backbone of the garden and many white flowered forms are available. Consider Bridalwreath Spirea, althea, mock orange, viburnum, and azaleas.

Employ white beautyberry and variegated pittisporum for drama without blooms. Don’t forget the many available roses such as “Lady banks”, “Moonlight”, and Cherokee rose.

Vines can literally frost the garden with white. Confederate and Star Jasmine along with Clematis are two of the more vigorous choices. For the night fragrance, plant the annual morning glory relative moonvine.

Tropicals function as showy accents in the summer. Some, like white butterfly ginger, are root hardy in most Texas gardens. Others, like bougainvillea and plumeria, require winter protection, while some species, like tropical hibiscus, are inexpensive enough to use as annuals.

Bulbs come in a variety of white forms. Plant paperwhite daffodils, white tulips, and hyacinths in the fall. Add caladiums, and gladiolus in the early spring to bring interest to your more permanent plantings.

Annuals are indispensable in any garden. In winter, count on dianthus, snapdragons, and pansies. As temperatures warm up, plant zinnias. The classic series or “Profusion White” is both low growing, ground cover types. In the backdrop, use white marigolds, cosmos, or cleome.

Use perennials to fill in your spaces. Most will be warm season bloomers and, frankly, some act more like annuals than perennials, so you may have to replant occasionally. Texas bluebells are now available in many colors, including white. Other white flowering perennials include Louisiana Iris, Shasta daisies, white flowered yarrow, white flowered turk’s cap, white plumbago, and white Salvias.

This is all merely a sampling of the white plants available that could fill your all white Texas garden. Sit back and imagine yourself amidst clean, cool, classic blooms, and make your vision of white a reality.

TEXAS-TOUGH CONTAINER GARDENS

2011-05-26T20:40:00.000-07:00

Plants, pots, and potting media that are unfazed by heat and drought

The whole world seems to be in love with container plants. So much so that some gardeners can’t control themselves—their whole gardens have gone to pot!

Texans have embraced container plants since the earliest Spanish settlers first introduced the concept. After all, they make great mobile horticultural displays. They provide added architectural interests in their construction form and materials. And, of course, they allow those who don’t own a piece of terra, or the ability to reach the ground, the opportunity to garden. Many a patio, deck, and porch can thank containerized gardening for its comforting greenness.

Form And Function

There are many kinds of containers on the market, ranging from relatively inexpensive to “if you have to ask how much, you can’t afford it.” To be quite honest, however, most plants don’t care what the actual container is made of, or what it costs. Homemade containers and recycled containers are just fine if they fit your design theme. At my place of business, I happen to own more than 15 crown tire planters myself! (Don’t try that in your suburban neighborhood.) Plants only demand that the chosen container hold a proper growing medium and that there be a drain hole at the bottom.

Although pots are available today in myriad artificial materials as well as natural ones, terracotta clay pots still remain the most popular. In my horticultural experience it’s pretty much like everything else “ you get what you pay for.” Experience has shown that clay pots from Italy are high quality and long lasting, while inexpensive clay pots from domestic sources tend to succumb quickly outdoors. Mexican clay pots also seem to break down relatively quickly.

Generally, the thicker the clay and the longer it’s fired, the longer it will last. My favorite long-lasting clay pots are those made of white East Texas clay in Marshall, Texas, by Grubb pottery. I’ve never had one even think about falling apart. I even still have some that once belonged to my Grandmother Derestine and are now considered to be family heirlooms. Grubb has been making them for over 100 years, so they obviously know what they are doing.

Container Basics

The very first thing to consider when choosing a container is the size it will be. Just remember, the larger the pot, the less you will have to water it. Also remember that it’s a myth that adding pot shards or gravel at the bottom of the container will make it drain better. It actually makes it drain less.

However, too much drainage is a bad thing as well. Drying out during our hot summers is the limiting factor in container gardening in Texas. Due to the added gravity and the limited root-growing area, all plants in pots will dry out faster than the same exact plants in the ground. For this reason, I suggest only growing drought-tolerant plants, only using large containers, and only using a soil mix that retains moisture. This normally means the predominant ingredient is sphagnum peat moss. Bark-based potting soils often require watering as often as several times a day during the hot summer. Anything more than once a week, I deem a horticultural design flaw. I’ve even been known to break a basic horticultural rule by filling up half or two-thirds of large containers with clean topsoil and then topping it off with high-quality potting soil. The topsoil helps decrease the drainage and reduce the costs.

But, the best all-around soil mix for most showy bedding plants is a professional peat based potting soil containing sphagnum peat moss, vermiculite and perlite, with a slow release fertilizer like Osmocote added. It’s important to use a slow-release fertilizer in containers, as water-soluble nutrients are prone to draining right through the pot and being totally wasted.

The Planting Plan

You have the option of using plants that persist year-round, like evergreen shrubs, succulents and groundcovers, or rotating color plants adapted to particular growing seasons. The primary seasons for specific plant growth in Texas would be cool-season (late fall, winter and early spring) and warm-season (late spring, summer and early fall).

A typical color rotation would include frost-tolerant plants like pansies, dianthus and ornamental kale when the cool temperatures arrive. These plants would then be replaced by mild-temperature-loving selections like petunias, verbena and Geraniums in spring, or perhaps heat-loving tropicals like firebush, esperanza and copper plant that would all last until the first frost. I personally suggest skipping the “spring” plants and only using the tough, heat-tolerant tropicals, but it’s entirely possible to include some of both in mixed plantings and let the heat-tolerant summer plants overtake those that perform best in the spring.

One of the benefits of container gardening is that the limited area makes it much easier and more economical to change out color schemes on a more frequent basis to suit your design taste, or the often-changing Texas climate.

A Better Option

In the past, I maintained numerous containers that were changed out frequently. As I’ve gotten older and wiser, I’ve staring limiting the number of containers that I use and place them closer to sources of water. My current interest is experimenting with succulents that don’t require any additional water (other than rainfall alone). Yuccas, Agaves and their varied relatives are literally living sculpture and make great container plants in Texas.

High-maintenance or low-maintenance, annuals or perennials, homemade pots or imports, there’s something in container gardening for everyone. Just try somehow to contain your enthusiasm! Please allow me to apologize for not getting to all of your questions this column, I have been extremely busy with work and promise to get to them as soon as I am able. Until next time…Happy gardening!

Jimmie

Structure and Form

2011-05-16T19:18:00.000-07:00

The new aesthetic in garden design features graceful silhouettes,

strong shapes and sculptural lines.

Each decade brings a new trend in gardening. The 80’s were characterized by exuberant color with mass plantings of annuals and the introduction of many new exotic plants into the market. The 90’s developed as the decade of perennials. Ornamental grasses, Hostas and native species became fashionable flora. Color was still an important aspect of garden design, but the focus shifted from flower to foliage color. Plants with chartreuse, dark purple or variegated leaves became the rage.

The current trend in garden design is plant composition and form. This new aesthetic advocates plants with strong structure or graceful silhouettes. Plants are prized for their architectural shapes much like sculpture. Planting is less dense so that each individual plant or grouping of the same variety is surrounded by blank space that defines its outline.

This simplified design style reflects the principles of the Arts and Crafts movement: clean lines, beauty in structure and materials that echo the native environment. Creating a setting that shows off the natural form of every plant and harmonizes with the surroundings.

Strong Forms

If you were able to take a black and white photograph of a typical perennial border, it would be hard to distinguish the different plants included. Large drifts of each variety, planted closely together, are characteristics of the design. Without flower and leaf color as a clue, the lines between various spaces are blurred. But plants that are recognizable by their shape and structure more than their foliage and flower color stand out even in gray tones.

Plants With Structural Shapes

Clumping Bamboo grows in several different heights and is not invasive like its running cousin. Erect, segmented stems become bare at the bottom over time, creating an interesting look. A row of clumping bamboo makes an effective screen or hedge, and a single plant becomes a graceful accent.

Agaves and Yucca are gaining popularity for their drought tolerance and low maintenance as well as their graceful arching and sword shaped leaves. Many varieties display showy flowers on tall spikes. Due to their large growth and strong shapes, they are usually planted as solitary specimens.

Ornamental grasses continue their reign as garden favorites in this current design trend. The stiff, upright growth of Feather reed grass, the fine drape and sway of Mexican feather grass or the elegant curve of Maidengrass all exemplify architectural qualities.

Tall Spikes covered in pale flowers rise above shiny dark green, deeply lobed clumps of leaves on bear’s breeches. The combination provides a striking accent in a partially shaded area.

The big, bold foliage of tropicals like bananas, palms and elephant ears will become more available to gardeners in less temperate climates to use as seasonal structure in the landscape.

Texture

Peeling or rough bark or exceptionally smooth trunks on deciduous trees and shrubs fit into the modern gardening style. Heavily crinkled or wavy leaves also display a high textural quality. Hosta breeding already embraces this trend toward rough leaf surfaces.

Size

Size does matter in the modern garden. A single, large plant becomes the focal point of an expansive landscape. However, the downsizing of modern yards has not been ignored. Many new dwarf shrubs and trees are now available as growers develop these structural elements in smaller sizes.

Bed size is shrinking as well. Smaller yards and individual plantings call for diminutive gardens. Look for longer, thinner planting beds with a limited number of individual plants and more visible mulch.

Low Maintenance

The perennial craze of the last decade was partially fueled by the mistaken notion that planting perennials would cut down on garden work. But perennial gardeners soon realized that not replanting every year did not equate to fewer chores in the garden. Perennials need regular maintenance to stay looking good: deadheading, dividing and pruning.

Many of the current popular foliage plants require little maintenance when planted in the right location. Succulents need excellent drainage, so good soil preparation is very important. Natives of the tropics like lots of sun and many need protection from strong winds and frost. (By the way, has this been the windiest year ever or what?) Site them correctly and they will reward you with stunning good looks and little care.

Keys To A Successful Lawn

2011-04-12T19:17:00.000-07:00

What You Need To Know To Ensure Healthy Turf:

1. MOWING

Timely mowing will have a big impact on health, weed control and thickness of your lawn. The general rule of thumb to go by is to remove not more than one-third of the leaf blade at any one time. For some turf grass varieties, this could actually mean mowing every 3-5 days during summer when growth is most active.

2. WATERING

Water as deeply and infrequently as possible during dry spells, ideally 1 to 1-1/2 inches per week, depending on soil type. Watering every 3 to 5 days, even in the hottest days of summer, should be sufficient if you water deeply.

3. AERATING

Aerating is a mechanical method that pulls cores of soil from the lawn to allow better penetration of air and water. The best time of year to aerate is from mid-May through June, although July and August are also acceptable months as well.

4. VERTICUTTING

Also known as vertical mowing, this process thins and rejuvenates the lawn. When used on warm-season turf grasses, verticutting functions as a different form of aeration. Verticutting is used with cool-season turf grasses when overseeding in the fall. It thins the turf and allows the seed to fall through the grass and make contact with the soil. Thus improving your seed germination.

5. FERTILIZING

Most of our lawns in North Texas are best fertilized using a 3-1-2-ratio fertilizer. An example would be 15-5-10 or 24-8-16. The first number on the bag is Nitrogen. You can apply the fertilizer every 6 to 8 weeks. To prolong the greening between applications, use a fertilizer product that has its nitrogen in a slow release form. An organic method is to apply ½ inch of well-decomposed compost evenly across the lawn twice a year.

6. PRE-EMERGENT WEED CONTROL

Pre-emergents disrupt seeding development, so the timing of your treatments is crucial. Spring applications of Balan, Betasan, Team or other labeled products should be applied around March 1^st and again around June 1^st for summer annual grassy weeds. Your fall treatments should be applied around September 10^th using two different pre-emergent products on the same day. The first is for grassy winter annual weeds, using any of the previously named products. The second is to apply Portrait or Gallery next to prevent winter annual broadleaf weeds.

7. POST-EMERGENT WEED CONTROL

Broadleaf weeds are controlled with an herbicide containing 2,4-d. Use a dedicated sprayer and apply at the labeled rate according to turf type when temperatures are between 55 and 85 F. In Bermuda grass lawns only, grassy weeds are controlled with DSMA or MSMA between May and September. Nutgrass can be reduced over several seasons by applying Image or Manage between May and mid-September.

8. TREATING DISEASES

For brown patch in St. Augustine, treat the area around affected patches with Terraclor or Bayleton in late spring and especially early fall. Leaf spot diseases in turf grasses are controlled with Daconil, Banner, or Mancozeb. Avoid fertilizing when a disease is present in your yard.

9. CONTROLLING INSECTS

Generally found in hot, sunny areas of St. Augustine lawns, chinch bugs have an irregular feeding pattern from June through August. Water before and after treatment with a granular Talstar or synthetic pyrethroid product. Grub worm activity usually starts in early August and continues until early November. If discolored areas of turf pull up easily and 4 to 6 grub worms are present in a 1-square-foot area, treat with a granular Mach II, Merit or a pyrethroid product and water into soil.

Prior to making any pesticide application to your lawn, please be responsible by correctly identifying the problem you have. Pesticide labels are frequently amended, added or deleted for specific crops or pests. Therefore carefully examine the actual label of the pesticide product before use. Please read and follow all label directions. Until next time…happy gardening!!

Jimmie

Landscaping For A Peaceful Backyard

2011-03-18T04:37:00.001-07:00

Ah, finally home from a hard day at work. Finally out of the traffic that is so often at a standstill. You are now away from the nagging boss, ringing telephones, the barrage of e-mails from customers. Now is your time for peace and tranquility. What better place to be than your own backyard? But wait, your backyard is plain, dull and boring. How many colors do you see? How many different kinds of plants and wild life do you see? Then you start thinking, maybe I should do something to fix up my backyard.

You are sitting and pondering about what you should do or how to do it. What if I put some flowers here, or some bushes there? I wonder what it would like if I put some big containers with grasses or tall growing flower over there? You mind starts running wild with ideas. What’s new? What are some ideas that people have come up with that I would have never thought of? You go and buy some gardening and landscaping magazines at your local store and you see some of the most beautiful ideas.

So now you are thinking, will this idea or project work for me? Do a little research on your ideas. Say you would like a certain kind of flower. You might want to find out all about that flower so you know if it would fit into the scheme of things including the time you can and want to devote to it. For instance if you want to plant flowers that do not require much care, check with your local greenhouse on those types of plants.

There are many themes for planting a garden. One of my favorites is an Aroma Garden. I love soft, succulent smells and an aroma garden is one of the most therapeutic things you can do for yourself. You could create a small winding path out of brick, stone or shredded mulch and take a slow stroll and just inhale all the wonderful smells and enjoy all wonderful sea of colors that you yourself created. You can say, “I did this all by myself.”

You can also add plants that attract butterflies, birds and other wildlife for you to enjoy. These kinds of plants usually require more watering than the average plant as they need to be more succulent as to nourish the butterflies and birds. You could plant a trumpet vine plant that will attract humming birds. The humming bird is the most enjoyable bird of all to admire. With their acute speed and spectacular coloring I can watch them for hours. Watching the butterflies should be the most relaxing of all. They are so graceful and colorful too. And with all the studies that are out today, colors and smells can do so much for your mental psyche.

The sound of running water has it calming quality also. You could set up a fountain. If you have a large enough area you could set up a pond with a fountain in the middle or you could create a small stream created with rocks so you have the sound of rushing water. If you have a pond you could add frogs or Koi fish. If you enjoy wildlife having water available at all times will bring them in, not only for your personal enjoyment, but also for the benefit of the animals.

These are just a few out of the multitude of ideas out there. After you have done some research, like we do for our clients, you will be amazed at all the different tips, tricks and ideas that you have to choose from. Go ahead be a little daring. Think of your garden as Nature’s canvas and you as the painter. Play with it; mix and match colors. Like painting, if you don’t like something, you can always change it if you are not happy.

Remember one thing before you get started: Design around your lifestyle! If you are constantly on the go then keep things simple that require minimal maintenance. If you have a little extra time and enjoy gardening, or find it somewhat therapeutic, then you may want to include a few higher maintenance things in your game plan. And when all else fails, you can always call a pro to help you out or at least steer you in the right direction. Until next time...Happy Gardening!!

Jimmie

Send your landscaping and gardening questions to Jimmie Gibson Jr. at jimmie@absolutelybushed.com or in care of the Prosper Press at prosperpressnews@yahoo.com A prosper native, Jimmie is the owner of Absolutely Bushed Landscaping Company. His landscaping and gardening column runs every other week in the Prosper Press.

Ornamental Grass: A Low-Maintenance Alternative

2011-03-03T20:29:00.000-08:00

What makes ornamental grass "ornamental?" I like to think there are two reasons, both of which are good arguments for including ornamental grass in your landscaping.

Firstly, this is not the "grass" that many of us have reluctantly been mowing since our childhoods, to contrast which with ornamental grass we might term, "functional grass." Such functional grass serves primarily a practical purpose: namely, it forms a uniform surface on which to walk when we're out in the yard. Outdoor carpeting, if you will. Ornamental grass, by contrast, is not meant to be mowed, is not meant to be uniform, is not meant to be tread upon.

Secondly, in terms of aesthetics, functional grass is mainly negative space. That is, its job is not so much to be admired itself as it is to form a stage on which the yard's actors (flowers, shrubs, trees, hardscape etc.) play their roles. Ornamental grass, by contrast, is one of the yard's actors. The only purpose of ornamental grass is to be pretty, to be an "ornament."

Ornamental grass is used in landscape design the way one uses flowers, shrubs and trees. In fact, it is often mixed with such plants to fill planting beds, creating diversity in terms of your plant selection. When composing such planting beds, it is best to layer the plants, placing the tallest in the back, the shortest in the front and the rest in the middle. For this reason, I categorize the ornamental grasses below in terms of their height.

Tall Ornamental Grasses

No fall or winter landscape should be without a tall ornamental grass. Plume grass (Erianthus ravennae) is grown in most planting zones. It grows 8'-11' (its clump has a spread of 3'-4'). This plant, with its tall, thin shafts and fluffy coiffures, exhibits a delicate structure that lends a touch of charm to the harsh winter landscape. Because of its height, a plant such as plume grass can be used as an anchor.

Maiden grass (Miscanthus sinensis 'Gracillimus') is a fine choice in zones 5-9 for a tall drought-tolerant ornamental grass, as it reaches as much as 7’ in height, with a spread a bit less than that. Maiden grass (or "maidengrass") bears coppery tassels as a seed-head in early fall, eventually growing lighter in color and adorning the plant as a "plume." Don't cut the clump's stems back until after the bleakness of winter passes, since the graceful stems and puffy plumes of this plant will provide some visual interest on an otherwise barren December-February landscape.

Intermediate Ornamental Grasses

Purple fountain (Pennisetum setaceum 'Rubrum') is a tropical ornamental grass. Since we live in an area subject to harsh winters, you'll need to treat it as an annual. The plant reaches a height of 3-5 feet with a spread of 2-4 feet. Its purplish flower spikes are succeeded by fluffy, attractive seed heads tinged with purple or burgundy. Its spiky foliage is also burgundy in color.

Northern sea oats (Chasmanthium latifolium) is an ornamental grass that grows 24"-36" high in loose clumps of green foliage. Its name derives from its seed pods, which look like oats. This deer-resistant ornamental grass is cold hardy to zone 5. Even after its leaves have dried and died, it provides visual interest to the winter landscape.

Short Ornamental Grasses

For a shorter rabbit-resistant plant, try liriope, or "lilyturf" (Liriope spicata). Lilyturf ornamental grass can be grown in zones 4-10 and reaches only about 1' in height. Lilyturf likes water, but also prefers well-drained soil. Select an area with partial shade and soil rich in organic matter for best results. This ornamental grass, too, has a spiky flower, ranging in color from white to lavender. In autumn it bears a dark berry. You'll want to contain this plant, however, because it can be invasive.

Another short ornamental grass (around 1’ x 1’) grown in zones 4-8 is blue fescue (Festuca glauca 'Elijah Blue'). The popularity of this clumping, drought-tolerant ornamental grass lies in the blue color of its foliage, which will beautifully complement any surrounding plants you may have with silvery foliage, such as lamb's ears. The plant rather resembles a pincushion bristling with blue pins. As with maidengrass, cut back foliage in early spring. Divide every few years to rejuvenate.

Low-Maintenance Landscaping With Ornamental Grass and Mulch

Whether you mix ornamental grass with shrubs, trees and flowers or let it stand alone, you'll want to apply mulch around ornamental grass. Replacing lawn grass with a combination of mulch and ornamental grass can reduce yard maintenance requirements. While this may not be feasible for large areas, it is certainly an option for small plots of land. Remember, maintaining lawn grass goes beyond mowing time. It also includes such tasks as mower maintenance. Until next time…Happy Gardening!!

Jimmie

WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE COLOR?

2011-02-11T09:03:00.000-08:00

When giving cut roses as Valentine's gifts, we adhere to a time-honored formula that takes into account rose color meanings. The formula matches a flower's color to its intended meaning as a gift. Valentine's Day is primarily a lovers' holiday, and red is traditionally reserved for lovers. Red Valentine roses enjoy an iconic status, even though other colors have their place on the holiday. Our close family members may also be treated to red posies for Valentine's Day, but we avoid this color choice for friends on Valentine's Day -- that would simply convey the wrong meaning. The following are the meanings traditionally ascribed to the most popular roses, according to colors:

Red means romantic love (the "Valentine roses," par excellence.)
Purple, coral and orange challenge red as the color for Valentine roses. The rose color meanings for these 3 are as follows: The specific purpose of purple roses is to signify that the giver has fallen in love with the recipient at first sight. Meanwhile, coral signals desire. And orange roses, along with apricot, connote enthusiasm.
The meaning of yellow roses is joy and friendship.
We express our gratitude and appreciation with pink roses.... While feelings of admiration and sympathy find words with roses that are light pink in color.
Peach is more ambiguous, as it can signify either sympathy or gratitude.
Their purity, naturally enough, lends white roses the meaning of reverence and humility.

But is growing Roses in the yard that simple? Just about.

The formula for growing rose bushes is a well-known one, since it is a formula that the average landscape plant lives (or dies) by:

Sun + water + drainage + rich soil = rose success

I use the terminology "rose bushes" to refer generally to all roses, regardless of form, which can range from miniature shrubs to sprawling climbers. Once you're committed to following the formula for growing rose bushes, for maximum success you'll simply have to tweak the formula a bit and add some extras. For instance, while roses like six hours of sun per day, it does matter what part of the day those six hours come from. Six hours of morning sun is preferable to six hours of afternoon sun, for two reasons:

Rose bush foliage prefers to be dry. The quicker the dampness from the night is burned off the foliage, the less likely disease is to become a factor.
The afternoon sun is often excessively hot. Roses profit from some afternoon shade.

How about pruning?

The proper tool for pruning rose bushes is a set of bypass pruners, not anvil pruners (the latter can crush the rose bush's stem). Since rose bushes like to send out a strong lateral cane at the node just below a pruning cut, try to make pruning cuts about 1/4 inch above an "outward" facing leaf bud. By doing this and removing plant material from the center of the bush you will create a more open vase-shaped plant less susceptible to disease.

The principle behind deadheading roses is the same as it is for any other plant. Removing spent blooms from rose bushes is a way of channeling plant energy into areas where it is needed more.

Plant Information for Selecting Rose Bushes

Hybrid tea rose bushes and Knockouts are the most popular, because they put out a big rose on a straight stem. Polyanthas produce dense clusters of small flowers on a dwarf rose bush. Floribunda rose bushes are a cross between the hybrid teas and the polyanthas. Grandifloras produce large rose clusters on long stems. Other options for rose bush growers include miniatures, climbers, tree roses and old-time varieties.

Don’t be intimidated by Roses. They are a great compliment to any landscape not to mention the availability of fresh cut Roses right outside your door!

Question: Jimmie, when is the correct time to prune my Lantana back? Thank you for your time. I have been wanting to ask you this for 3 years now! Janet P. in Prosper

Answer: Hi Janet, when your lantana's leaves turn brown and the plant dies back to bare wood when freezing temperatures arrive, there's not much point in waiting till spring before pruning. Take the opportunity to prune your lantana down by as much as to within 6-12 inches of ground level. Leaves will re-emerge in spring. Lantana isn't harmed at all by such a drastic pruning, and the result will be a more compact lantana plant with many more blooms! Until next time…Happy Gardening!

Jimmie

When to Re-Seed or Re-Sod Your Lawn

2011-01-28T10:03:00.000-08:00

Lawns, a major part of the American tradition. If you look into the history of lawns, you will see that the traditional lawn has not been around that long. America has really started to take a real pride in maintaining a beautifully landscaped yard. If you really want to put a perspective on landscaping, you could consider your lawn as the back drop or canvas of your property. Everything stems from your lawn. You house is an extension of your lawn. Your trees, shrubs, bushes and flowers are all extensions too.

Now with that in mind, you must have a good background to bring out all the embellishments that have been added to your background. Walk around your yard and really look at your lawn. Are there some dead spots, thin spots, mis-colored spots?

If you do notice any of these types of issues you should go through the process of elimination to find out if your lawn is infected with some kind of insect, worms or fungus. You might also want to have your soil tested to make sure all the proper mineral contents are within the best recommended specifications. This can save you a lot of time in the long run if one of the above is the issue. You can re-seed or re-sod the bad spots but they will just die off again, so to save a lot of hassle it is recommended that you do a thorough investigation of the perceived problem.

Some of the determining factors that will help you figure out if your lawn needs a tune-up are:

Approximately 40% to 50% of your lawn is dead.

When walking across the lawn if feels soft and spongy.

Your lawn getting taken over by weeds.

There are many determining factors, but these three are the major factors. Sometimes just making simple modifications to basic lawn care practices or improving site conditions is all you need to revive your lawn.

So if you have determined that your lawn needs a little pick me up or a little bit more, the best time to re-seed is in late summer between August 15th to September 20th . The next best time would be in April or May. Re-sodding can be done pretty much year round with proper soil prep. Late summer is the preferred time for re-seeding for the following reasons:

The soil is warmer which is better for germination.

There are fewer problems with weeds.

The cooler season encourages grass growth.

There is less chance of water evaporation as this process requires a lot of water.

If you are planning to do just some small patch repair (8’ or less) it is recommended that you use 1 part seed with 4 parts of a natural organic fertilizer. This way you can accomplish two tasks at the same time. Try working up the soil just a little bit to give the lawn seed just a little more to adhere to. The seeds are very, very light and will blow away easily. You can also use straw or fine netting available at your local home improvement store. After you have spread the grass seed another recommendation is pressing the seed into the ground, just a light pressing will do. You can use just any tool you can think of to press the seeds down. You can also install a very thin layer of topsoil over it to help keep the birds from eating all of it!

Then comes the hardest part. The daily watering and then getting down on your hands and knees looking for the little green sprouts. Depending on the type of grass you decided on planting, germination can take anywhere from 5-28 days. You should do your best to keep the soil moist at all times, this keeps the germination time to a minimum.

When you have finished this tedious process, the payoff will be worth the work and effort. Remember this is the backdrop for everything on your property. You want it to look the best it can. Once all this is completed the lawn is ready for your enjoyment and the neighbors will be in awe! Until next time…Happy Gardening!!

Jimmie

Garden Tool Care

2011-01-20T10:01:00.000-08:00

If you speak to any avid gardener about his or her favorite tool, the gardener can be passionate in describing this hoe, those pruners or that little garden cart that has become a great buddy. And it’s no wonder; using good tools makes gardening work much easier.

A few years ago, I bought some gardening tools at a discount retail store (I won’t mention the name) for what I thought was an inexpensive price at the time. I thought I had made a great buy until I went to use them. The hand pruners would not cut anything. They were too dull for small stems and too weak for woody thicker branches. The hand trowels bent immediately after digging into soil that had been well amended. They turned out to be no bargain at all once I had to throw them all away. On the other hand I bought similar tools about 20 years ago (ones I considered very expensive at that time) and I still use them today!

Lesson learned is always buy the best tools you can afford. Look for blades constructed with steel for strength and durability. Stainless steel will never rust. I also prefer fiberglass handles on all long-handled shovels and rakes, although some people just simply prefer wood. If you're one of those folks, take my advice and always buy Ash wood. It is the strongest wood for the job and it will not splinter or crack.

Quality tools are designed for hard work and should last for years if properly maintained.

Caring for all your hand tools is a quick and easy process if you have everything you need close at hand. Always store your tools together in one space so you know where to find them, and keep your cleaning and sharpening items in that same area.

After each use:

Remove all the dirt from your tools. I use my hand trowel to scrape off all the caked-on soil from my shovels and rakes, then a putty knife to clean off the hand trowel.

Dry all your metal parts with a soft cloth, then wipe them with an oily rag or spray them with a light coat of penetrating oil such as WD-40. For extra protection and ease of use, fill a 5-gallon bucket with clean builder’s sand and pour a quart of new motor oil into the sand. Plunge the metal parts of your tools in and out of the oily sand several times after each use. This process will clean, lubricate and prevent rust all in the same motion.

Other tips:

Sharpen the edges of shovels, spades and hoes with a file. Run the file flat on both sides of the edge to smooth out any nicks, and then sharpen the inner edge of the blade. Place the file at a 45-degree angle on the edge of the blade. Pull the file at the same angle in one direction only, not back and forth. A few good strokes should do the trick.

For wooden handles, sand away any splinters with fine grit sandpaper. Dust off any wood dust, and then wipe the handle with a rag dipped in mineral or linseed oil to lubricate.

Help your tools, your plants and yourself:

Well maintained tools reward you by easing your gardening chores. Sharp, well lubricated shears will trim hedges with ease. A sharp edge on a pruner, saw or mower leaves a very clean cut, allowing plants or turf to heal quickly. A sharp hoe chops weeds without much effort at all.

Do yourself, your tools and your garden a favor by caring for your tools properly.

Landscaping Back Yards for 4-Season Interest

2011-01-04T09:32:00.000-08:00

The Best Back Yards Have Something to Offer in Each of the Four Seasons

Have you noticed that we are demanding more and more out of our landscapes? For the upscale, this may take the form of outdoor kitchens with all the amenities of home, or, perhaps, large in-ground swimming pools with Jacuzzis built right into them. For the average person, the trend is toward something a bit more modest: namely, landscaping back yards with an eye to all four seasons.

Landscaping back yards for 4-season interest begins by drawing a landscape plan. Trees and shrubs simply take up too much space for you to plant them haphazardly, unless your property is very large. For smaller properties, it is better to allocate space for trees and shrubs in a methodical and disciplined manner, so that they don't end up outgrowing their homes and causing you problems.

Consequently, tree and shrub selection must take into consideration the mature sizes of the plants. Other practical issues must also be addressed, such as the zone in which you live and the sun and soil requirements for the trees and shrubs that you have in mind.

Once you've researched the practical issues, you can give free rein to your more creative side. Again, the idea is to distribute the color that trees and shrubs offer across the four seasons, as equally as possible, so as to achieve year-round interest.

The Spring Season

By the time winter's over, let's face it: we want color, and we want it fast! Thus the popularity of one of the earliest blooming shrubs, forsythia. Forsythia blooms in early spring, well before many of the other flowering trees and shrubs. Achieving color on the landscape in mid-spring generally isn't a problem, since there are so many flowering trees and shrubs from which to choose. The following resources provide information on some of the many choices available during this period of floral abundance.

If you plan carefully, late spring needn't take a backseat to April and early May, in terms of color. Lilacs are a long-time favorite that will bring color to the landscape in late spring. To supplement your lilacs, two other plants to consider are mountain laurels and hawthorns.

The Summer Season

In summer, the brilliant spring blooms on trees and shrubs give way to just plain old leaves. It can be a challenge to find any trees and shrubs that will bloom for a significant amount of time during the summer season. In the long blooming period of crape myrtle trees is a boon to summer landscaping. Also consider long-blooming Rose of Sharon, whose flowers conveniently hold off until the second half of the summer as well as the other great ornamental anchor the Vitex. Also consider the abundant blooming Knockout Roses and the Butterfly Bush.

The Fall Season

While floral color reigns triumphant at the beginning of the growing season, at its end it is foliage color that is king. I have collected a number of resources on the best fall foliage trees, including the must-have maples, and the best shrubs and vines for fall color, but here I would like to draw your attention to two plants in particular that are useful -- and overlooked -- in extending the fall foliage season.

I love the exquisite harvest colors of autumn and feel the fall foliage season is too short-lived. To get a jump on the fall foliage display, plant sumac shrubs, which usher in the autumn season well before the Maples, Crotons and Mums fall foliage, will help bridge the gap between the last Rose of Sharon bloom and the first hint of color on your Maples.

But don't stop there! The best color of the maples will be gone part way through October, so you also need a fall foliage specimen that takes the torch from the maples and carries it a bit closer to the winter season. Oak trees will do just that, albeit usually with less flare than the incomparable maple trees.

The Winter Season

But alas, despite your best efforts to prolong the fall foliage season, winter will surely come, eventually. What then? What do you have to work with once the trees have dropped their leaves and the spring blooming period is still months away? Indeed, winter poses the greatest challenge to the goal of achieving year-round interest on your landscape.

Consider the wonderful bright pink bark of the Coral Bark Japanese Maple. The colder it gets the brighter the stark pink bark makes a great winter show. Also remember that most of your Holly varieties will be producing the bright red berries this time of year as well. Until next time…Happy Gardening!!

Bye, Lee Anne

2009-06-06T16:41:00.001-07:00

We are going to miss one of our talented designers. Lee Anne and her family are relocating to North Carolina. It's been great having her on our design team. We wish her and her family the best!

Our Mascot

2009-04-26T15:52:00.000-07:00

We lost our mascot Major on June 5, 2008. He lived a long spoiled life. He was loved and cared for just like a child. Every member of the Absolutely Bushed family got to know Major very well. Often times taking him out for walks, bathing, and feeding him. He belonged originally to Mac until Macs untimely death. Jimmie told his father he would continue caring for his dog and promised the best care for Major. So this was a hard loss on all of us. It has took us this long to even be able to type about Major's passing. He is missed everyday. We still can't find it in our hearts to replace Major. He was one of a kind. He was the most loyal, smart, sweet doberman we have ever encountered. He loved every one he met. We all miss him dearly. Major was a rescue from the Doberman Rescue of North Texas. Absolutely Bushed continued to send contributions since the passing of Mac Gibson in 2001. We will continue to support them in memory of Major. When our hearts have healed we plan to adopt another doberman. Please visit the Doberman Rescue of North Texas and make a homeless dog a new family member.

Meeting Local Celebrities at the Fair

2009-04-26T14:54:00.000-07:00

Look Who We Ran Into at the Fair!

The family of Absolutely Bushed are big sports fans. We listen to the Ticket Sports Radio and can call ourselves P1's. Our wives, husbands, and kids listen to the the Ticket. We were even more thrilled to have run into Gordon Keith at the midway.

Landscaping on a Budget

2008-11-04T19:41:00.000-08:00

5 Tips for Landscaping on a Budget

Landscaping on a budget doesn't mean settling for a shabby yard. From plants to patios, from window boxes to water features learn how to save money while designing an attractive yard from the resources below for landscaping on a budget.
1. Landscaping on a Budget: Lawns
Many homeowners obsess over lawn weeds, and their obsession drives them to spend money unnecessarily on weed killers. If they're successful in these witch-hunts against weeds, the result is a monoculture. But the experts, counsel us to accept a certain percentage of weeds in the lawn. Their argument is that lawns with some diversity remain healthier than lawns reduced to a monoculture.
This argument goes doubly when the "weed" in question is clover. Clover is a nitrogen-fixer, sharing this ability with other cover crops in the pea family. Clover will fertilize your lawn for free.
2. Landscaping on a Budget: Hardscape
Water features needn't cost much but make a big splash in your landscape design. Modern pumps and pond liners are easy for do-it-yourselfers to install. Add some stones and an extra bit of effort, and you can even build small waterfalls. Scrounge around for free stones at construction sites (obtain permission) or on the property of your country cousin.
Not only water features but other hardscape projects can be easier than beginners at first imagine. It's just a matter of choosing the path of least resistance. For instance, brick patios laid in sand are easier to build for do-it-yourselfers than those laid in concrete. By planning properly, it is also possible in many cases to avoid having to cut any of the bricks, a task daunting enough to drive many a homeowner into paying someone else to lay a patio for them. Similarly, bypass the pricey pros and lay your own stone walkways in sand.
Next, we'll take a look at some more tips for landscaping on a budget, including whether or not to buy scraggly-looking plants on the cheap........
Obtaining cheap plants requires an adjustment in our attitudes. Many of us grew up buying plants from sources that specialize in the gardening trade. Such plants are high-quality, but that quality comes at a price. When shopping for cheap plants at sources that do not specialize in the gardening trade, you must resist the temptation to compare "apples to oranges."
3. Landscaping on a Budget: Cheap Plants
For instance, plants on sale at supermarkets will, in many cases, be of a quality inferior to that of the same plants found at your local nursery. But they'll be less expensive, too, so the comparison is rather unfair. What you have to ask yourself is,
1. "Do I have the time to sift through the cheap plants, in order to select acceptable specimens?"
2. "Do I have the time to give these cheap plants some extra TLC once I've planted them?"
3. "Is the time expended in #1 and #2 above justified by the money that I save?"
If you answered these questions with a "Yes," then you're well on your way to success in landscaping on a budget. Like the tips for saving money (see above) purchasing cheap plants can result in a yard that looks like a million bucks but costs you relatively little. But there are two caveats in buying cheap plants:
1. If you don't know what to look for to determine a plant's health, bring along someone who does. At the very least, inspect plants to see if they have any bugs on them. If they do, then they're not worth bringing home even if they're free!
2. Once your cheap plants are in the ground, practice proper plant care. Of course, this is always sound advice, even for high-quality plants. But in the case of cheap plants, a little extra TLC may be in order. For instance, if the plants have been stressed at the store, you may have to be extra-meticulous about watering them properly.
Supermarkets are only one example. Perhaps the online equivalent is eBay. You may be able to obtain 10 plants for the price of one by bidding on them via eBay. Sure, 8 of the 10 may end up dying on you. But that still puts you one plant ahead. Again, it's a matter of adjusting your attitude. A good online source for trees is the National Arbor Day Foundation (arborday.org), which often runs specials whereby, if you purchase such-and-such an amount, they'll throw in something for free.
You can supplement your early shopping for annuals with the annuals that go on sale at nurseries in July and August. This is an inexpensive way to extend the time period during which your yard can be graced with colorful blooms. Also, some supermarkets put shrubs and perennials on sale at the end of the summer, to avoid being stuck with inventory that they can't take care of during the winter.
4. Landscaping on a Budget: Water Conservation
But landscaping on a budget goes beyond obtaining cheap plants. Some plants require more water than others, and water is an increasingly precious commodity. Drought-tolerant plants are better than most at fending for themselves, which lowers your water bill. Selecting drought-tolerant plants is one part of an overall water-conversation approach known as "xeriscaping." You can also save money on watering by installing automatic irrigation systems and by applying garden mulch.
5. Landscaping on a Budget: Containers and Fertilizer
Container-gardening makes a lot of sense if space in your yard is limited. The idea makes even more sense if you can obtain inexpensive containers and plant them yourself. Inexpensive containers, including cemetery logs (which can serve as window boxes) can sometimes be purchased at yard sales. Just be careful to scour them out well, in case they harbor any plant diseases.
Whether planting in the ground or in containers, you'll need to fertilize your plants. But why spend more than you need to on fertilizers when you can feed your plants for free? If you're serious about landscaping on a budget, then one of your first projects should be to build a compost bin. Then just place kitchen scraps, raked leaves, etc. into the compost bin, watering and mixing occasionally, and you'll have a ready source of soil amendments -- for free. If that sounds like too much work, some cities offer free compost at designated locations on a first-come-first-served basis. This compost is produced from vegetation removed by city work crews. Three cheers for waste recycling!

Hot Tips

2008-08-20T23:12:00.000-07:00

Top 10 Tips for Do-It-Yourself Landscaping

"In a nutshell, what is the best way to go about beautifying my yard?" I am sometimes asked this rather broad question, and it's a tough one to answer. There are so many variables in do-it-yourself landscaping, such as budget, skills, the climate of your region, your personal design tastes, how you'll be using your yard, etc. But there are some steps you can take in do-it-yourself landscaping that are so sound that they readily suggest themselves as answers to this question.

1) Make it interesting year round.

Here's a can't-miss tip for beautifying your yard: make sure you're providing something of interest in each of the four seasons. Do-it-yourself landscaping for 4-season interest begins with a well researched plant-selection plan. The goal is to have flowering trees and/or shrubs throughout spring and summer, fall foliage in autumn and good structure in winter. This article describes how to achieve that goal.

2) Try layering

Layer your planting beds in 3 rows: a back row (facing north, preferably) with the tallest plants, a middle row with the next tallest, and a front row composed of your shortest plants. Use repetition, both in the planting bed and elsewhere in your yard, to provide unity.

3) Evergreens

Do-it-yourself landscaping tip #1 above focuses on decidous trees and shrubs. But don't forget evergreens. The deciduous specimens provide more color and variety, while the evergreens will provide continuity and “structure” for winter interest.

4) Annuals to Supplement

Perennial flowers are wonderful for your planting beds, but they bloom for only so long. You may have perennials blooming in your bed in May, then nothing until July. Incorporating annuals into a do-it-yourself landscaping plan will "plug the gaps," giving you continuous color in the yard. Use my picture gallery on my site to find ideas for your color schemes. The gallery is preceded by an introduction to employing color in landscape design.

5) Hardscaping brings it all together

Don't restrict your do-it-yourself landscaping to plants. Include hardscape features, too. Like evergreens, they provide structure in winter, and much more than that. Walls and fences make an essential design statement, as they frame your property. When I’m driving around the countryside, I’m constantly struck by how much more “finished” the properties with fences look decks and arbors are other important hardscape features. Patios and decks provide transitions from indoors to outdoors.

6) Don't be scared to try water features

Good landscape designs are anchored by focal points. One of the hottest trends is to use water features as focal points. This is one trend with "sound" reasoning behind it: water features are not only visually appealing, but emit soothing sounds. Using pre-formed rigid plastic liners, durable pumps, flexible tubing and cheap fountains, they're also a lot easier to install than you think. Once you've experimented with ponds, you may even decide to advance to the next level: simple waterfalls.

7) Foliage!

Flowers are great, but don't forget the characteristics of a plant's foliage. In landscape design, varying foliage textures and colors are used to spice up the yard with diversity. Evergreen conifers, while lacking flowers altogether, nonetheless have foliage that offers a myriad of different textures and colors. That's right, colors, too. For not all evergreens are green! While browsing these do-it-yourself landscaping tips, you'll discover many ways to enhance the beauty of your yard.

8) Low Maintenance

You can follow all the above do-it-yourself landscaping tips and still not be happy with your yard. For, besides giving your yard a pleasing appearance, you must also be sensible in planning for its maintenance. Beautiful or not, you'll resent your yard if it causes you too much work. Unless you don't mind spending hours each weekend on upkeep, plan your design for low maintenance.

9) Drought Tolerant

Many novices at do-it-yourself landscaping start out with high hopes in spring, only to have them dashed in summer. Why? Because the summer heat wilts all of that promising spring perkiness out of their plants! The answer? Select drought-tolerant plants to grow, instead.

10) Flower Types

Carefully matching the types of flowers you'll be growing with the space where they'll be growing is a fundamental policy to follow in do-it-yourself landscaping. Light and soil requirements should always be considered before deciding which types of flowers to buy for your yard.

Small Space Gardening

2008-08-20T23:11:00.000-07:00

Sometimes gardening isn’t limited by space, but by time and interest. If you love the idea of being surrounded by a garden, but you can’t see yourself spending countless hours with a pruner in your hands, a wonderful option is to create a garden paradise on your patio or terrace. You could still incorporate beds and containers, but you have the added element of hardscaping. They haven’t invented a stone yet that doesn’t look even better next to a plant. Even concrete looks more interesting when softened with plants. Of course, the patio or terraces should be constructed first which is considered your hardscape. Once you have your hardscape, planting it is the enjoyable part.

Here I’ll talk about framing, softening the edges, creating paths and maximizing your patio’s potential.

Planting a Patio or Terrace
The main purpose of a patio or terrace is to have a place to relax and entertain. Surrounding yourself with the beauty of plants will make it that much easier. Even non-gardeners now consider their patios an extension of their homes - a room without walls. Rather than just providing a view, interior design is carried from the inside out.
Framing
Creating a distinction between your patio or terrace and your lawn is how you turn this outdoor space into an outdoor room. You can accomplish this by outlining the patio with a border, by building raised planters around the edge or by creating an edge with containers.

Borders
Having a border around your terrace is enjoying the best of both worlds. You have a true garden to putter in and you never have to leave the comfort of your living area. The border will probably be somewhat narrow, 2-4 feet, but a lot can be accomplished in this space. In addition to plants that spill onto the patio, like lady’s mantle and geraniums, you can create clusters of height with grasses or small shrubs. If the border runs between the house and the patio, you might want to try your hand at espalier, or growing a fruit tree trained to lay flat against the house wall. The heat of the house and the openness of the branches produce a considerable yield in a small space.
Built-ins: Many patio designs have built-in flower boxes along the perimeter. They delineate the space and provide additional seating. But more importantly, they provide an eye level garden. You have all the advantages and control of container gardening as well as the root insulation provided by brick or stone. Many plants will do well in these circumstances, but it’s especially nice to have scented plants: roses, heliotrope, gardenias, jasmine and sweet peas.

Containers
If you don’t have an edge border or built-in boxes, you can always create the effect with containers. Either an entire row of matched containers, simulating built-ins, or clusters of different sizes and shapes, filled with a variety of plant material.
Any of these options will create a distinction between your living space and the openness of the rest of your property.
Softening Hard Edges
Stone is beautiful, but on its own it can look cold, hard and uninviting. Two types of plants will be especially useful in turning your patio or terrace into a welcoming retreat.

Spillers
Plants that flow out onto the stone will automatically soften the hard edges. Light, airy foliage is especially good for this. Lady’s mantle (Alchemila mollis), Love-In-A-Mist (Nigella damascena), coreopsis, lavender and ferns are good examples. Just be sure to suit your plants to your sun exposure, because proximity to stone is going to intensify the heat.

Creepers
Unless your patio or terrace is paved, there are bound to be spaces between your stones. You’ll learn soon enough that weeds will readily grow there. So why not use the spaces to grow something more attractive? Thyme, sedum, scotch moss and creeping jenny are often used for this purpose. Don’t try to fill every crack. Plants can become slippery when squished or wet and you should use care that heavy traffic areas are safe. But a few selected spots will give your terrace a touch of Tuscany and a well lived in feel. You’ll be surprised how quickly these plants will acclimate and find their own way around the patio.

Creating Seating Areas and Privacy Sitting Areas
The major point about using plants around sitting areas is to be sure you leave enough space to get to them. You’ll want at least 3 feet on every side of a table, to get into your chairs. And use some judgment when choosing plants. Consider their rate of growth and their mature size. Some plants can be trimmed back, but small trees get larger and plants with thorns should be kept away from seating areas and paths.
Privacy & Creating Height
Privacy on your patio or terrace can easily be accomplished with well situated raised planters and containers, as discussed above. You should also consider creating some height in your plantings.

Vines & Climbers
A trellis or lattice work used as an open fencing makes an ideal spot for a climber or vine.
Clematis, trumpet vine, honeysuckle, morning glories, even cucumbers can be used to create an open wall that allows a passage but not prying eyes.
If your terrace is too sunny or warm, you also might want to consider some sort of pergola across at least part of it, which give you one more place to plant. Climbing hydrangea, Jasmine, Magnolias, Camellias, and Wisteria are good examples.

Planting on a patio or terrace can be an ends to a means, a garden for enjoyment and not toiling, or it can be a work of art that’s within reach. Linking your home and yard with a patio garden can really be the best of small space gardening because it will allow your garden to suit your gardening aspirations. Until next time…Happy Gardening!!!

Keys to A Successful Lawn

2008-08-20T23:09:00.000-07:00

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW TO ENSURE HEALTHY TURF

1. MOWING

Timely mowing will have a big impact on health, weed control and thickness of your lawn. The general rule of thumb to go by is to remove not more than one-third of the leaf blade at any one time. For some turf grass varieties, this could actually mean mowing every 3-5 days during summer when growth is most active.

2. WATERING

Water as deeply and infrequently as possible during dry spells, ideally 1 to 1-1/2 inches per week, depending on soil type. Watering every 3 to 5 days, even in the hottest days of summer, should be sufficient if you water deeply.

3. AERATING

Aerating is a mechanical method that pulls cores of soil from the lawn to allow better penetration of air and water. The best time of year to aerate is from mid-May through June, although July and August are also acceptable months as well.

4. VERTICUTTING

Also known as vertical mowing, this process thins and rejuvenates the lawn. When used on warm-season turf grasses, verticutting functions as a different form of aeration. Verticutting is used with cool-season turf grasses when overseeding in the fall. It thins the turf and allows the seed to fall through the grass and make contact with the soil. Thus improving your seed germination.

5. FERTILIZING

Most of our lawns in North Texas are best fertilized using a 3-1-2-ratio fertilizer. An example would be 15-5-10 or 24-8-16. The first number on the bag is Nitrogen. You can apply the fertilizer every 6 to 8 weeks. To prolong the greening between applications, use a fertilizer product that has its nitrogen in a slow release form. An organic method is to apply ½ inch of well-decomposed compost evenly across the lawn twice a year.

6. PRE-EMERGENT WEED CONTROL

Pre-emergents disrupt seeding development, so the timing of your treatments is crucial. Spring applications of Balan, Betasan, Team or other labeled products should be applied around March 1st and again around June 1st for summer annual grassy weeds. Your fall treatments should be applied around September 10th using two different pre-emergent products on the same day. The first is for grassy winter annual weeds, using any of the previously named products. The second is to apply Portrait or Gallery next to prevent winter annual broadleaf weeds.

7. POST-EMERGENT WEED CONTROL

Broadleaf weeds are controlled with an herbicide containing 2,4-d. Use a dedicated sprayer and apply at the labeled rate according to turf type when temperatures are between 55 and 85 F. In Bermuda grass lawns only, grassy weeds are controlled with DSMA or MSMA between May and September. Nutgrass can be reduced over several seasons by applying Image or Manage between May and mid-September.

8. TREATING DISEASES

For brown patch in St. Augustine, treat the area around affected patches with Terraclor or Bayleton in late spring and especially early fall. Leaf spot diseases in turf grasses are controlled with Daconil, Banner, or Mancozeb. Avoid fertilizing when a disease is present in your yard.

9. CONTROLLING INSECTS

Generally found in hot, sunny areas of St. Augustine lawns, chinch bugs have an irregular feeding pattern from June through August. Water before and after treatment with a granular Talstar or synthetic pyrethroid product. Grub worm activity usually starts in early August and continues until early November. If discolored areas of turf pull up easily and 4 to 6 grub worms are present in a 1-square-foot area, treat with a granular Mach II, Merit or a pyrethroid product and water into soil.

Prior to making any pesticide application to your lawn, please be responsible by correctly identifying the problem you have. Pesticide labels are frequently amended, added or deleted for specific crops or pests. Therefore carefully examine the actual label of the pesticide product before use. Please read and follow all label directions.

Ornamental Grasses

2008-08-20T23:08:00.000-07:00

Sometimes, even the most beautiful shrubs can look rather forlorn, simply plunked down in a flower bed, particularly if placed in front of a stark wall or an ugly fence.

A comparison might be buying a really attractive piece of furniture and positioning it in a bare room with a nasty, stained wall behind it! Somehow, its beauty is lost in that environment. But as those shows on HGTV demonstrate, a complimentary backdrop and some well-placed accessories can make all the difference, creating a stage upon which your special piece stands out as a star.

To take this idea to your flower beds, consider adding ornamental grasses.

The right grasses can provide an eye-pleasing backdrop and a buffer between your shrubs and a fence or wall. They can compliment and enhance the shape and color of your plantings, and many can provide attractive greenery long into the winter when there’s little else to attract the eye. I happen to think that shimmering, frost-covered spikes on a crisp winter morning are a truly beautiful sight!

So what should you choose? As always, I’m happy to offer specific, personal advice via e-mail if you send me some details at jimmie@absolutelybushed.com but let’s start with a few basic ideas...

Tall grasses can provide the ideal backdrop for flowers and shrubs. Try these:

Maiden Grass (Miscanthus sinensis ‘Gracillimus’) This is quite a “large” grass and is a favorite of ours due to its fine, narrow foliage and gracefully round form. Maiden Grass blooms from mid to late fall and grows 4 to 6 feet tall and 4 feet around. I recommend about 48 inch spacing between plants. It grows quite fast and is dense enough to obscure any unattractive fencing behind it. It is also fairly deer-resistant when mature and is quite drought resistant. A very nice addition to berrying plants and evergreens.

Porcupine or Zebra Grass (Miscanthus sinensis ‘Strictus’) This is a variegated form of Maiden Grass and grows to about 5 feet tall, flowering in September. The gold bands on the foliage create a really interesting streak of color. Like its Maiden cousin, Porcupine is a fast grower and can tolerate sun, partial sun and shade.
Looking for smaller ornamental grasses to integrate with your other plants? Try these:

Blue Fescue (Festuca ovina glauca Elija-blue) Elija Blue is the bluest of all the blue fescues, and really creates a stunning effect when planted with flowers and small shrubs that produce pink or red blooms. Try planting Elija Blues with dianthus (pinks). Around June, you’ll see tall, flowering spikes rising from the fine-textured clumps that spread approximately 18" - 24".

Pennisetum Little Bunny.
A cute name for a really cute ornamental grass that grows less than one foot tall! It is ideal to plant in front of perennials, and works well as a ground cover or with dwarf conifers and rock gardens. At our house, Roxanne and I planted Little Bunny in French drains in front of our home. It is rabbit-resistant, sun tolerant, and gives us these beautiful tufted plumes in late summer. The blooms persist into winter but we often harvest and dry them for flower arrangements. If you’d prefer a variegated version, look for its cousin, “Little Honey.”

For one that is not too tall and not too small, but just right, consider this one:

Dwarf Grass (Pennistum Hamelin) This is just about our favorite! Its finely-textured foliage and compact growth made it ideal to plant in front of our own house. We love the flower clusters that appear in summer and fall, earlier than most other varieties. They top out at about 2 to 3 feet at maturity and look great year round.
I hope this has given you some ideas for enhancing the look of your flower beds (and, indeed, much of your landscape) without spending too much of your hard-earned cash!